Over the mountains to #45. 88 Shrines

Notes 27 October 2015

Kuma Kogan township. 1800 ft. 

This note finds me in a Ryokan run for Henro. I am in a dining room adjourned with photos of Henro in full gear, newspaper clippings, letters and books the room is traditional timber panelled with rice paper-dividers, the floor is bare-timber polished by a thousand slippers, lit by the softest of lights, the space is warm and comforting secure from the teeming rain outside. 

The smell of good food fills the room our host lights the individual hot pots containing chicken bits, cabbage, mushrooms, thin slices of onion in a broth. Noodles are in a little bowl ready to be put into the hotpot. The tray is laid out with a dozen small bowls, pickles, Shishimi fish, boiled potatoes, baked tomato, baked eggplant, curdled Soy, sardine in oil, sliced swede, mixed veggie with little chicken bits, rice, Soy sauce, chilli powder. Fig in honey glacé and what looks like a creme Brulle. There is green tea and water. 

I listen intently to the Japanese not being able to understand the direction of the conversation. I have walked with some of these Henros.

 I draw back into my own thoughts concentrating on the gastronomic tastes and marvelling at the skill of our host. 

I am suddenly back at the table. I am being asked in English why I came back from #44? 

The real answer. 

I was anxious to move on and walk 44-45 the latter is a 9.8 klm walk in the mountains in and back 19.6klms over 2 mountain passes it would be a challenge for me. 

Anyways gung-ho Malcolm San arrives in Kuma plenty of time to start the walk and promptly follows the arrows the wrong way. It is OK to get lost but not in the mountains they are hard work with an 11 kg pack. Anyways after an hour - back I go and find the right track but a local stops me and points at the sky. Yep I had been so wrapped up in finding the way I forgot to check the elements. She was wagging her finger and crossing her arms like a street vendor selling those peely-choppy thingies. But I got the message there was a storm coming. I decided to do the 3 klm to #44 anyway just to satisfy my male ego. it was then I turned back and found this ryokan. 

Could I tell him this story? No.

My answer "there was a storm coming". Said cool Malcolm San. It was true listen to the rain.

The morning dawned clear and cold. After a wonderful Japanese Brekkie I hit the road. My intention was to catch a bus. (Yeh I know a real wimp) but this #45 had shaken my confidence.  I was fussing about looking for bus times when a policeman stopped me. I explained my intentions to catch a bus. This happy policeman started to laugh in broken English he said it is only 3 hours walk and catch the bus back. Spoken like a man.

So that is what I did over both mountain passes with 11 kg pack. (Yes Citt I drained the water from my camel). #45 was so beautiful nestled below a 300 metre cliff with age old spruce and pine standing sentinel. The sun dappling the age old buildings, the sound of soft bells from pilgrims sticks ringing out in the clear mountain air. The Eagles glide in the updraft calling in a high pitched whistle. I give the underground shrine a by-pass. I am claustrophobic. 

I caught the 13.05 bus and the Matsuyama bus back to the Terminal Hotel and a welcome Onsen.  

Notes 29 October 2015

This note finds me @ the Terminal Hotel reflecting on the past 3 weeks. I am feeling a little sad. Journeys are like life in microcosm. I think of what I could have done, I think of what I should have done and I think of what I have done. It is past. Lessons learnt passing souls enjoyed. I have walked 450 klms, caught buses, ferries, trains hitched rides even rode in a police car. I have made it to Shrine #51 I have had so much fun and found inner peace. 

As i journeyed the kindness and respect from these people was sometimes overwhelming. I only hope the lessons I have learnt will help me to live a better life. Thank you for following my blogs for me this journey is over. If I am able I would love to journey the 37 Shrines I have not visited. But that is not in my hands. 

I leave Shinkoku tomorrow