Showing posts with label pilgrimage. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pilgrimage. Show all posts

Tuesday, 19 March 2024

The last leg to Santiago de Compestella.


 Hello
Todays Date 4 March 2024 10 years after the event.

To fill you in. 1st November 2014

 We walked into Santiago de Compostella completing a 650klm pilgrimage from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostella. My back was killing me and I was exhausted. 
So here I am with my guide book Photos and memory reliving the footsteps and spiritual ups and downs of that wonderful walk.
Each day that passes I have vivid flashbacks memories of people, places the sounds of the track, the trucks passing. Voices speaking foreign language. Food to die for, delectable wine, strange unfamiliar beds. it is a part of a paradigm shift. I know who I am.
We have attended two Graduations. Citt in Oxford UK. Masterof the Internet.
Kellie from QUT MBA late 2014. 
Two very proud parents we are!
We had a party for for my 70th with friends and family and during the course of that gathering I was asked to contribute some more posts and to finish this journey in print. 10 years later.........


The last 6 days of the Pilgrimage.



 
 
Walking over the bridge that delinates the northern border between Portugal and Spain
TUI Espagna border.
The city was paralysed.
Real Madrid FC v Barcelona FC 1- 0 and the GOD  "Ronaldo" was playing for R.M. 
Huge screens in bars cafes and on streets.Footie Spanish style.
Real Madrid won 2-0 and Ronaldo scored.
The noise of the locals was Fantasic.

No bed to be had at the price we could afford. 
Leaving Pam in a cafe minding our packs. 
Citt and I set off to seek beds, if you are focused it will happen.The most  unusual place. A garden full of carvings. Hostel with private suites - a huge history of America and the new world- time for us to rest and recuperate.

After 2 nights our souls and spirits soared time to move on!

Decision start out early.

It is my task to set the alarm
Now we are on the border.
Portugal is an hour ahead of Spain.
Portugal runs on Lisbon time an hour behind Spain
Spain runs on Madrid time an hour behind Lisbon
Day light saving came in at midnight?

Now 
Is the time 6 or 7.
Wrong we got up at 5. NOT 6. OK I know I calculated that wrong. 
Had Brekkie and went back to bed for an hour.
Citt and Pam were not amused!

Yeh Yeh simple?

No harm done right? Wrong! I heard about it for the rest of the journey.

Walking at dawn is my favorite time of the day, however leaving before first light, can be a problem. The way-marks (are yellow). it is easy to miss them and taking the wrong turn can prove disastrous on a days walk adding kilometres to the day.
By starting at first light 7.00am coffee and pastry stop at 10.00am knowing we have covered around 14 klms which is well into the scheduled walking distance and if the scheduled sleeping stop 7 hrs (25 klms) is closed or full then we have time to walk onto the next bed before the light fades into night. Good theory does not always work but gotta have a plan Stan.

Tui Espagna at first light is magic.  Churches are silent waiting for the faithful. Crucifix silhouetted in the morning light. Slow slope to the river with a Roman bridge silhouetted in the morning light. Mist off the river covering the Roman Bridge the path is low and covered in water pines of soft green, corn silent watching us pass, soft crunch of boot on path no one speaks occasionally Citt opens her camera and clicks an image. Several crosses mark a pilgrims resting place now silent in the mist.
I am in awe the beauty of the past unfolding - a Roman Road - bridges - unchanged paths clothed moss tracks covered with pine and Oak. I hear the creaking of the wood on wood no springs here. The animal toiling under the whip of the centurion in a hurry to get to his house to greet his lover. he watches for the bandits ever present as this is Galicia the land and the place of free spirit. 
Citt calls a warning bringing me back to the space. "Dad the way is blocked by water", we get together and navigate, the hazard - joined by fellow pilgrims. it makes going forward difficult. The recent rains have made the track a lake. More rain on the way. The country around changes to vineyards, corn. Undulating land not very interesting at all. We cross a beautiful roman bridge with a huge stone Madonna sitting in the middle breaking the back of this 2000 year old structure. The rain gets heavier and it is hot- my coat leaks the seams have lifted. i take off all my clothes except my undies and singlet- that works nothing to get wet under my wet weather gear only me.  The trick is to keep out the chill wind.
The miltary bridge from roman times.


We are passed by 5 young Spanish girls chatting with fluorescent scarves flashing? They are moving at a fast pace.

Up ahead we know we have 5-10 klms of Industrial Estate Marble processing. Recycling plants and huge factories to walk through it is hot-near-midday. Our guide- book reminds us Saint James passed this way in 5 AD.
Yeah right!
He would not have had  the smell of rubbish, plastic, metal recycling plants. With large populations of rats, flies mosquito and Mad security dogs terrifying him through the fences.
But hey this is a a pilgrimage right?
"It is enjoyable!" I say.
"get a life Malcolm". says Pam
"we are almost there", Citt chimes in.
"self, cut the negative talk". I say.
(A  huge mastiff tries to tear down the fence to eat us). 
"Who let the dogs out"  "Woof Woof"  sings Citt.
"Stop that stupid song" says Pam.
Who let the cats out? Meow Meow. Sings Citt.


Anyways onwards through the Industrial areas over the rail lines and into suburbia time for lunch. Now this area is famous for its sheep and wine. After searching around for a restaurant we were directed to a Trade Unions Hall that had a dining room. The best roast lamb served in huge amounts and apple pie that was to die for. We set a benchmark for roast lamb and pie. Portugaise roast lamb is not English roast lamb. It is cooked like a sheep shank with lots of Tubor veges and tomatoes. 

This is Porrino and the 5 Spanish girls cackled past us again.

we have still got 18 klms left to walk to Redonella.
 


The Camino has now changed. We are in Espagna and they know the value of the pilgrim and revere our presence. The lanes become decent walking trails well tended with good rest stops and cafes. Few pilgrims walk from Lisbon to Santiago de Compestella. It is a shame as this is the true pilgrimage of St James as here he worked and preached at Padron and surrounds his body was returned from Jerusalem and he was transported and buried in Santiago de Compestella although this is not our final destination this journey we plan to travel on to Finesterre the end of the earth (fine terra).

The country changes and is very pleasant walking although very hilly. Our afternoon tea stop was at a very loud bar serving alcohol and coffee. The local bikies were out in force and it was a bit worrying for us. Our plan was to stop at a villa along the trail about 1 klm from the bikkie stop but when we got there we found the house was for sale and closed. It was a further 9 klms to Redonella this would make it a 32 klm walk and we had wasted time along the way. Reaching Redonella we again were unsuccesful in finding a bed. The local Alberque had no blankets and we had shipped our sleeping bags home to save weight. What to do. 
As always an angel appears directing us to a hole in the wall through which we found a luxury apartment for a pilgrims budget. St James was kind to us that day. 

First light and we again head out after a hearty breakfast in the local Pasteleria. 
 
 
 
 
Now I promised to enlarge on a Pasteleria in an earlier post.---------------------------- A Pasteleria is like a Boullangerie in France, but they serve light meals. The cakes pastries and breads are to die for served with scrumptious coffee, fresh juices or milk shakes. They will cut a sandwich from in house smallgoods like a delicatessen. Every town has one various degrees of class and price. Perfecto.
 ------------------------------
  

 
The old roman road takes us close to the Atlantic Ocean winding up and down hills . The rocks in some places are worn by the wheels of the carts of the old roman drays that plyed this route. It was the main roman military road linking Porto and Lisbon to the trading ports in the north and the jump off point for Britain. 
The oak trees are going to sleep shedding their acorns and squirrels scurry about collecting  dodging us as we pass. The elms poplar and apple are turning gold ready for the cold winter. Our route is due North the weather is cooling 4 days walking left till we reach Santiago de Compestella. Citt predicts rain in 5 days.
We walk on now hardened and fit. Pams' blisters are on the mend. We all need a haircut and a good bath.

We hear the gaggle and rattle of the 5 Spanish girls walking fast.


Passing through beautiful grape country with trellised paths and walkways. Small chapels and grottos mark the route. Water fountains hundreds of years old are there for refreshment. Our morning stop is a bar with 2 very loud girls enjoying the spirit of the occasion serving a great coffee and bread complete with a scollop shell as a souvenir. 
Our journey took us to the Town of Arcade.
Lunch stop and the beautiful bridge Ponte Sampaio Here the Portugese forces stopped the march of Napoleon. They blew half the structure away. (Bit hard to walk on water even Napoleon could not do that.)
Onto a large provincial City Pontevedre spiritual cultured and lovely with a Cathedral,  Chapels, Restaurants,Tapas bars and ample sleeping accommodation.
We meet up with other pilgrims who we have passed on and off for the past weeks Restaurant Dinner is not served in Spain until 9.00. Always a problem for Pilgrims.

The weather was holding fast sunny days and cool mornings making for great walking.
Walking in this part of Spain is relatively easy there are no real climbs the refreshment stops are well placed and accommodation is not a real problem.
Ponte Sampaio

Having walked the French Camino the year earlier my spiritual health was good. I stopped at regular intervals to give thanks at chapels, grottoes and beautiful trees but it was not like my earlier pilgrimage this time I had presence and peace, being in the space being in my self. It is a state I have not experienced before. I have a deep inner peace a serenity of being. I have given thanks for my life and those who have shared with me. Now I am free to enjoy the rest of my journey.
The rock and St James

 
Our fellow pilgrims  had taken the route of St James. Myth has it his body was returned from Jerusalem. It landed on the point of the estuary and then carried to Padron and onto Santiago De Compestella
 
Padron houses the Chapel of St James and as always it was locked. Venturing up a long line of stairs we sat on the mount where St James held his sessions. A plain rock outcrop and a spring was all it was. Citt had a theory. In the time of St James the area would have been occupied by Pagan people and the site would have been their worship site because of the spring. St James took over the site to deny the Pagans a place of worship. Could be and it worked so gotta be a good strategy.
We opted to continue on the way as there was serious questions if the boat was running from the point to Padron
The smoking of the pilgrims Cathedral of St James Santiago de Compestella

The walk from Padron following the marked Camino was unevenful passing through surburbia and eucalypt forests, (never nice going into Santiago de Compestella. It is a large city and the old town is only a small part of this suburban mess). 
We have a small 15th century house booked in the old town to allow us time to continue onto Finesterre and explore Santiago de Compestella and give us some time to relax.

Then we met Fernando.
Finnesterre and Fernando

We hired a small house in the centre of Santiago to see the sites pack up our gear and head for Oxford UK where Citt was graduating from Oxford university.

 
 
 
 
However the owner of the cottage an obliging fellow offered to take us to Finesterre and surrounds for Lunch.
We did not refuse as it is 30 klms to Finesterre that is 60 round trip and we had just about exhausted our energy.
This is Gallicia.
 
 
 
 



Fernando showed us the incredible Roman bridge and village. 
Driving through hilly coastal country to the coastal region renowned for its seafood, cheese, lamb and fruit. 
We sampled a fish dinner Galicia style and it was fabulous. Thank you Fernando.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The next stop after Finesterre is the Americas. Strong wind and rain are daily and fog covers on a daily occurrence. There is a small chapel at the waters edge. I did not go to that chapel




Finester the end of the earth next stop America.


Thursday, 15 October 2015

The spider and the fly. 88 Shrines of Kinkoku.

The saga of changing money and WIFI.  
Saga 
Nothing seems easy in Japan. The bows The Origatos hide a complicated system. With lots of face. 
 WIFI there is a free Japan Tourist app giving 2 weeks free. What is wrong with that? Well fill in all details email home address etc and then tick off your life interests. Then. The the app asks for passcode to your IOS system. Yep go jump. I will rely on the free stuff at lodgings. Cannot buy a sim. Nope no Joey. U tourist not stay 60 day. Oookkkk. 
Money I spent 2 hours trying to change my humble Au$ to ¥.  A bank clerk in the end took me and showed me the grandest of grandest Bank AWA
 (what a lovely person to leave her desk and walk a kilometre with a dumb Henro).  
Yep for 10% fee at the roughest of rates the grandest of grandest Bank AWA took my Au$ in exchange for ¥. 
All around this grandest of grandest Bank AWA were beautiful Japanese smiles. 
Made me feel like a fly in a spiders web.   
I had just been stung.

Anyways I missed my early bus. Next bus 12.50. Not to worry time to write you, have a coffee and contemplate my good fortune to have seen the grandest of grandest Bank AWA and to know I have contributed to their cause. 

I am trying to figure out what the lesson was this morning?  
Bright spark award. 
 "he who has the gold makes the rules" A Fellow Swapper. 

Monday, 12 October 2015

88 shrines Blog. Please tap on this heading to access Blog.

Just a friendly note to better enjoy the blog. The email is a bonus. 

True North Day 6. 88 Shrines of shikoku

Notes. After 17 shrines. 
Hello I started in Tokushima  here I am again. 
Visiting shrines is not straight forward indeed it is like a Cook's tour of the small idyllic hamlets and byways of rural Japan here in Tokushima Prefecture there is a diverse range of scenery Mountains covered in Pines, Spruce and Maple. The river flats grow rice, pigs, chickens with small towns.  There is some manufacturing of farm machinery but not on a large scale. The whole prefecture seems to be Criss crossed with roads and by roads winding and bending around hills mountains and rivers. It is very confusing to keep True north in the mind. Hence my journey has sometimes gone the wrong way. 
The path of the Henro is clearly marked. But to avoid two mountain walks I decided to catch a train from #11 Shrine and hop off at Kuo station and visit in reverse order # 17,16,15,14,13 and Sunday walk the mountain trail to #12. Perfectly simple you may ask. I walked 32 klms most of it the wrong way a 9 hour day coming into a small Traditional Hotel after dark with headlight flashing is not my idea of a holiday. BUT. it was not raining. 
I was correct in my assumption that the walk from #11 to #12 with my full pack would have been too difficult for me.
After a fantastic Japanese breakfast caught the bus to the end of the bus route. It is 9 klm from bus stop to Shrine straight up.  (left my pack at a family grocery store). I bought some lunch and a sweat to take with me in my day pack. I left the store at 8.30 thinking I would have ample time to walk up and back. The bus left to go back at 2.30pm . 
The track was a killer took 4 hours. 
Shosanji  Shrine is  beautiful 200 year old trees protect it and stand sentinel to the test of time. The maple are just starting to change colour ialong with recent rain the forest is glorious. 
I share a meagre lunch with a Japanese Henro at the Shrine escarpment before we headed  back down together, it was good to be with a kindred soul, our language differed but our purpose was the same.
 Back to the time factor I did not dilly dally on the way. I just made the 2.30 bus to Tokushima. My book is done to # 17 Shrine. I am happy. 
Had a need to top up yen in Tokushima. 
Woke up sore and a little slow, when I stood up it got worse. Packed checked out and noticed that the streets were quiet had a coffee and an egg-bacon sandwich. 
Great it is a holiday. 
Banks all shut. 
No worries ATM, right, do you read Japanese? no. What to do? My body was telling me this is for a reason take a day off. 
Back to my 5 Tatami room where the train comes through every 15 minutes. Have been asleep since 11.00   Slept for 3 hours. 
Every thing has a reason! 

Buddha "thanks".

“When preparing to travel, lay out all your clothes and all your money. Then take half the clothes and twice the money".  Unknown.