You ask about my Camino. There is really only one reason for my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compestella, to make thanks for my blessed life and to ask for a healthy fruitful life for our children and their children, our families and friends.
My awakening 2005. I had a doctor tell me that there is a cancer in my body and that is quite a shock. I thought of my family, my friends. I thought of my life. It all flashed by in seconds. Then reality set in, cash, hospitals and fear of the unknown. Fear for my family, fear for what lay ahead.
The operation for the first cancer and all the complications associated with it passed after a year. Then another cancer 2008. More fear, hospitals, cash, loss of income, time time time. Somehow somewhere my buttons were being pressed.
The universe said to us it was time to change life style. Two years later we found space. Breathing became easier and sleep did not elude. Then realisation struck. I needed to give thanks for my blessings.
The Way
Catherine told me, but Cherie Ashton actually did it in 2011. I saw " The Way" the movie. The seed was germinated, it resonated and I knew I would walk a pilgrimage and thank St James for my blessings in life.
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| At the gates St John Pied de Port Franc 820 kms to Santiago de Compestella |
The Way
The way is really difficult from St John Peid de Port. It climbs to 1500 m crossing the Pyrenees on a 34kms stretch. I did it in an 8 and 26km shot. The Camino at that point goes straight up to the top of the pass and then of course it comes down down down 10 km walk.
The other side ends up in Roncevalles Espagna. Roncevalles to Pamplona is beautiful, my walk the season of wild flowers and blossoms, gorgeous weather. I was getting used to the country, language, people and the lack of privacy in the Alberques (church hostels with dormitories).
Pamplona the weather was beautiful but when I got there I couldn't step over the doorstep. My right leg throbbed with sciatic pain, my left leg was a sickly yellow. I spent the next day in the sun sitting in the courtyard massaging legs.
Faith, if I believe, angels will appear!I walked the first village, the Alberque was full. I ended up in a small village 3 kms on. An Alberque with a strange Hospitelera however she was to be my angel. She was a devotee of the way of St James, these are the people who care for the paths and those who walk upon it, spiritually and physically. She took time to educate me on the Way. The spiritual strength, the mental strength needed and then I understood. I adjusted my mental thinking. I adjusted the expectations of my physical capabilities. I readjusted my pack then focused on my goal which was to thank St James for my life, my family, my friends and my health and all my life's blessings through prayer and meditation
It was then I believed in the Way. I never worried about meals. I never worried about food. I believed that where ever I was, whatever I needed the way would care for me. Only then did I become a true pilgrim on the way of St James.
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| San Marco Paragon Hotel and Pantheon the original alberque |
The Way itself is wonderful. It passes through Alpine regions with quaint villages stuck in the 15th century; it passes through areas of high industrialised action; it passes through areas where there are few people at all; old 15 century villages and the churches all locked. It is sad but it is 2013.
When it passes into the Rioja region it becomes wonderful, absolutely wonderful. I felt myself falling in love with this place called Spain. The vineyards, the old villages, the new villages, the towns, the style, the food, the friendship, the pride in their language. I just loved it and the further I travelled along the Way towards Santiago the more I became involved in the Spanish way of life.
I resonated with this area. My mother's ancestors came from this area, leaving it in the 15th century during the Spanish Inquisition. We immigrated to the Flemish areas now Holland.
Closer to Santiago the region of Galicia is heavily wooded with eucalyptus for the pulp industry. It is the first landfall for the Atlantic winds. At this point the weather changes dramatically and the country changes to lush green forests, the vineyards not so prevalent and the soil is fairly leeched but they grow pigs, chickens and dairy. The area is famous for its milk, cheese, creams and yogurts. The walking becomes quite difficult. The map says it is fairly straight but it has heavy undulations 400 to 500 metres down and up, this carries on for quite a long time and it is hard walking because you walk up the hill. You get sweaty and walk down and get cold. I found it extremely difficult This is the area where the tourists come to walk the Way. It is 100 km walk, the tracks are fairly well worn and the Alberques are crowded.
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| On the road out of Ceberia in a snowstorm many of the Perigrinos were rescued and transported down the mountain. They were not equipped for zero and heavy snow. |
I walked by myself but I was not alone. Perigrinos love to talk about their lives and dreams as they walk and eat. A lone Peregrino is a target.
I relished silent periods, the steady crunchy sounds of my boots on track and the rhythmic creaks of my pack harness, concentrating on my breathing pattern. At these times I mentally rewound my life year by year - long goodbyes to loved ones past, recognising mistakes and recognising achievements.
For me entering Santiago was overwhelming. I went to the cathedral on the 25th May. The city was crowded it was Saturday. A Star Wars spectacular in the main square. The cathedral was busy. I found a small chapel to the side of the main altar. I could not get to St James, he was too busy on that day so I prayed in the small chapel. I stayed there for an hour meditating and praying and I felt a great peace.
My journey was nearly over.
While in Santiago I stayed at the Seminary Minos. It was fitting that I should stay in a monks cell. I found it peaceful with time to recollect and set my mind to re-enter the commercial world.
The following morning I went to the cathedral mass at 10 o'clock and witnessed the bombardilo being swung from the roof. It was.just wonderful.
The afternoon I wandered the Cathedral visiting Saint James. I put my head on his shoulder and thanked him again for all my blessings in life. I visited his crypt below the altar to pay further homage. I felt free and a deep peace.
My credencia shows I started my pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago de Compestella France On the 19th April 2013 and completed on the 26th of May 2013. The distance is app 820 kms.
Celebration!! I went to a restaurant and had a typical Galicia meal of thick fish soup and octopus Pulpoa fresh Ciabatta bread and Galicia Tart washed down with exquisite white wine and a coffee to die for. I then went to the train station purchasing a ticket for San Sebastián.
The next morning I left Santiago on the train for a 9 hour train journey to San Sebastián. Pam was on the Paris train next day and I was excited at the prospect of seeing her again.
You ask how I pulled up, at peace mentally, sore physically, enlightened spiritually.
Thanks for asking.
Bon Camino
Malcolm
Now Pam and I travel on together following the Silk Road from the Atlantic to the Pacific overland using public transport via Central Asia and China.
Links to the journey pictures,
Camino De Santaiago de Compestella
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