In search of Persia: Polis, Isfahan, time to rest

Journal entry
27 October 2011
Kermansham (Harmadan) in North West Iran a university town. 
The region is on the borders of the tribal lands Kurdish and the Turkic People.


We were watching the weather closely. Citt was trying out her new knowledge as a meteorologist  with daily forecasts looking at the charts and the weather patterns. (Hmm... Pretty well got the weather right every time). Her cheery predictions snow and low temperatures for this region in the coming days.  (What a bright little button she is. That is what every back packer wants to hear).
Now we needed to get to Esfahan and get some miles into our journey as we had a long way to go and the days were running out.

Harmadan to Esfahan (Names are spelt differently in all the books.)

After a quick look around the city of Kermasham (Hamadan) we made our way to the bus station on the outskirts of town. The bus station was a modern enough place however we found the people not so friendly nor helpful. We had an hour to kill so headed to the cafe for some cay. Here we met some strange people. We were not sure what was their problem but in hindsight we now realize this is the start of the regimes  strong area. Up to this point we had been in areas where the Ayatollahs had little or no authority. This is a different ball game.


Like all good travelers! Mind our own business (zip it up).


The bus was two hours late and we looked forward to a 10 hour journey to Isfahan. My map showed it was a cross country type of route not a direct motorway at all. The road wound through the industrial areas of Iran into Isfahan. 


You would have be living under a rock to not know that Isfahan was the center of Iran's' nuclear program. Of course all foreigners would be watched especially a media specialist from the UNU "Citt Williams". 


Eventually the bus arrived at near midday and it was full. 
The booking office always made sure we were up front as that is where foreigners and women sit, (We are finding out about Iran real quick. Either up front or on the engine box.)
Anyway a whole lot of people were haranguing us on the Iran Government and what it is doing to them in this place. 


(We feel a bit isolated and alone for the first time in our travels. One never knows who is watching and how the system works.We are fully aware the back packer Americans were arrested just west of here and that they had just been sentenced. The papers were full of it. The papers were running stories on an attack from America and Israel. The locals were like us being filled with propaganda.) 


Our minds go ahead to Isfahan. At this rate we will be in that city near midnight. We have no booking and are not sure if the holiday tomorrow will make getting a room difficult. 
We decide to wing it. It will be OK don't you think?

Take a good look at the door

The bus journey.
Every time we get on a bus an adventure begins, this one is no different.
The rules seem to be. 
There are road blocks about every 70 kilometers or so. The bus driver must stop and take his manifesto into the Polis. 
Not sure if there is a tariff to pay as I did not go into the polis station. 
Cars are stopped at random and trucks are held up for a long time.  
Women cannot travel without the written consent of their husbands or fathers. Women must not travel alone, 
This is as I figure it.
Off we go with our sweeties and and water in our bag.
Isfahan some ten hours away
The journey.
The road took us through the Industrial areas of Iran constantly changing highways. Along the way we are entertained by some really good videos.The music hip hop Iran style with lots of drums and strings. I liked it and wondered where we could get copies. 


My question was answered but not quite how I expected.


The bus was constantly stopping for road blocks and at one of these stops it took a little longer than usual. 
Suddenly the polis entered the bus.
Walked up the bus and down the bus,
Looked carefully at each passenger.
Then a strange thing. 
They talked to the jockey and he handed over the whole package of Video and Music that we were enjoying, 
The Polis then ceremoniously dropped each disc on the floor and stood on each one separately. 
After emptying all the sleeves he scooped the poor broken DVD's up and put them in a box, Then looked at all of us like "you bad children and left the bus". I sort of hoped he would fall and break his neck. Or even better get run over on the the road by one of those big trucks. (I thought bad thoughts to him).


There was stunned silence........ a man speaking English whispered to me. That the DVD's were pirate. I thought Iran does not adhere to Piracy law. I questioned the speaker and he explained that the contents of the DVD's CD were underground Music and Videos and they were  not authorized by the regime.

 I am in search of Persia this is it. It is not all good news.


The incident galvanized the passengers on this bus. I think that an informer was on the bus and the passengers were not happy. I guessed he had gone
 As we traveled on into the night a group of guys grouped around us and started asking questions about what the international  press is saying about Iran. 
It turned out we were on a bus full of teachers. Kermansham is a center for Teacher education and this mob were on their way home. Teachers come from all over Iran to learn at the university and the teaching institutions. 


It worked in our favor as teachers like to learn and teach. We were interesting fodder.


In Citt they found a font of knowledge the discussion was of climate change, politics, and the role of the UN. Women joined the group to discuss their role in society.. 
They wanted to know all about our home-land Australia our beaches, lifestyle, customs and our religion.
Some had relations in America Europe and Australia. The hours passed quickly and the information on both sides was like pouring water into a sponge. 
We came in search of Persia. "sometimes you gotta be careful about what you ask for".. 


We were exhausted when the bus dropped us in the dead of night on the outskirts of Esfahan. A teacher hopped off the bus to make sure we got safely into a taxi before rejoining the bus to finish his long journey home another 9 hours. 


For us Persian hospitality has no boundaries.


Esfahan
Not a mouse was stirring on the streets of this Beautiful city. 
Our recommended hotel was full. Bugger.
We had a back up and it worked. But if you arrive late you have no bargaining power and this was expensive. But we got bed/breakfast and internet connection to check in to Oz. 
Besides it was to be the most flambouyant hotel I have ever been in. 
Take a look. The restaurant was amazing.

The guide book said it was gaudy but you know!

Blessed.
Shower and Bed 1.00AM