Hello
Todays Date 4 March 2024 10 years after the event.
To fill you in. 1st November 2014We walked into Santiago de Compostella completing a 650klm pilgrimage from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostella. My back was killing me and I was exhausted.
So here I am with my guide book Photos and memory reliving the footsteps and spiritual ups and downs of that wonderful walk.
Each day that passes I have vivid flashbacks memories of people, places the sounds of the track, the trucks passing. Voices speaking foreign language. Food to die for, delectable wine, strange unfamiliar beds. it is a part of a paradigm shift. I know who I am.
We have attended two Graduations. Citt in Oxford UK. Masterof the Internet.
Each day that passes I have vivid flashbacks memories of people, places the sounds of the track, the trucks passing. Voices speaking foreign language. Food to die for, delectable wine, strange unfamiliar beds. it is a part of a paradigm shift. I know who I am.
We have attended two Graduations. Citt in Oxford UK. Masterof the Internet.
Kellie from QUT MBA late 2014.
Two very proud parents we are!
We had a party for for my 70th with friends and family and during the course of that gathering I was asked to contribute some more posts and to finish this journey in print. 10 years later.........
The last 6 days of the Pilgrimage.
We had a party for for my 70th with friends and family and during the course of that gathering I was asked to contribute some more posts and to finish this journey in print. 10 years later.........
The last 6 days of the Pilgrimage.
Walking over the bridge that delinates the northern border between Portugal and Spain
TUI Espagna border.
After 2 nights our souls and spirits soared time to move on!
Decision start out early.
It is my task to set the alarm
Walking at dawn is my favorite time of the day, however leaving before first light, can be a problem. The way-marks (are yellow). it is easy to miss them and taking the wrong turn can prove disastrous on a days walk adding kilometres to the day.
By starting at first light 7.00am coffee and pastry stop at 10.00am knowing we have covered around 14 klms which is well into the scheduled walking distance and if the scheduled sleeping stop 7 hrs (25 klms) is closed or full then we have time to walk onto the next bed before the light fades into night. Good theory does not always work but gotta have a plan Stan.
Anyways onwards through the Industrial areas over the rail lines and into suburbia time for lunch. Now this area is famous for its sheep and wine. After searching around for a restaurant we were directed to a Trade Unions Hall that had a dining room. The best roast lamb served in huge amounts and apple pie that was to die for. We set a benchmark for roast lamb and pie. Portugaise roast lamb is not English roast lamb. It is cooked like a sheep shank with lots of Tubor veges and tomatoes.
This is Porrino and the 5 Spanish girls cackled past us again.
we have still got 18 klms left to walk to Redonella.
The Camino has now changed. We are in Espagna and they know the value of the pilgrim and revere our presence. The lanes become decent walking trails well tended with good rest stops and cafes. Few pilgrims walk from Lisbon to Santiago de Compestella. It is a shame as this is the true pilgrimage of St James as here he worked and preached at Padron and surrounds his body was returned from Jerusalem and he was transported and buried in Santiago de Compestella although this is not our final destination this journey we plan to travel on to Finesterre the end of the earth (fine terra).
The country changes and is very pleasant walking although very hilly. Our afternoon tea stop was at a very loud bar serving alcohol and coffee. The local bikies were out in force and it was a bit worrying for us. Our plan was to stop at a villa along the trail about 1 klm from the bikkie stop but when we got there we found the house was for sale and closed. It was a further 9 klms to Redonella this would make it a 32 klm walk and we had wasted time along the way. Reaching Redonella we again were unsuccesful in finding a bed. The local Alberque had no blankets and we had shipped our sleeping bags home to save weight. What to do.
As always an angel appears directing us to a hole in the wall through which we found a luxury apartment for a pilgrims budget. St James was kind to us that day.
First light and we again head out after a hearty breakfast in the local Pasteleria.
The next stop after Finesterre is the Americas. Strong wind and rain are daily and fog covers on a daily occurrence. There is a small chapel at the waters edge. I did not go to that chapel
TUI Espagna border.
The city was paralysed.
Real Madrid FC v Barcelona FC 1- 0 and the GOD "Ronaldo" was playing for R.M.
Huge screens in bars cafes and on streets.Footie Spanish style.
Real Madrid won 2-0 and Ronaldo scored.
Huge screens in bars cafes and on streets.Footie Spanish style.
Real Madrid won 2-0 and Ronaldo scored.
The noise of the locals was Fantasic.
No bed to be had at the price we could afford.
Leaving Pam in a cafe minding our packs.
Citt and I set off to seek beds, if you are focused it will happen.The most unusual place. A garden full of carvings. Hostel with private suites - a huge history of America and the new world- time for us to rest and recuperate.
No bed to be had at the price we could afford.
Leaving Pam in a cafe minding our packs.
Citt and I set off to seek beds, if you are focused it will happen.The most unusual place. A garden full of carvings. Hostel with private suites - a huge history of America and the new world- time for us to rest and recuperate.
Decision start out early.
It is my task to set the alarm
Now we are on the border.
Portugal is an hour ahead of Spain.
Portugal runs on Lisbon time an hour behind Spain
Spain runs on Madrid time an hour behind Lisbon
Day light saving came in at midnight?
Now
Is the time 6 or 7.
Wrong we got up at 5. NOT 6. OK I know I calculated that wrong.
Had Brekkie and went back to bed for an hour.
Citt and Pam were not amused!
Yeh Yeh simple?
No harm done right? Wrong! I heard about it for the rest of the journey.
Citt and Pam were not amused!
Yeh Yeh simple?
No harm done right? Wrong! I heard about it for the rest of the journey.
Walking at dawn is my favorite time of the day, however leaving before first light, can be a problem. The way-marks (are yellow). it is easy to miss them and taking the wrong turn can prove disastrous on a days walk adding kilometres to the day.
By starting at first light 7.00am coffee and pastry stop at 10.00am knowing we have covered around 14 klms which is well into the scheduled walking distance and if the scheduled sleeping stop 7 hrs (25 klms) is closed or full then we have time to walk onto the next bed before the light fades into night. Good theory does not always work but gotta have a plan Stan.
Tui Espagna at first light is magic. Churches are silent waiting for the faithful. Crucifix silhouetted in the morning light. Slow slope to the river with a Roman bridge silhouetted in the morning light. Mist off the river covering the Roman Bridge the path is low and covered in water pines of soft green, corn silent watching us pass, soft crunch of boot on path no one speaks occasionally Citt opens her camera and clicks an image. Several crosses mark a pilgrims resting place now silent in the mist.
I am in awe the beauty of the past unfolding - a Roman Road - bridges - unchanged paths clothed moss tracks covered with pine and Oak. I hear the creaking of the wood on wood no springs here. The animal toiling under the whip of the centurion in a hurry to get to his house to greet his lover. he watches for the bandits ever present as this is Galicia the land and the place of free spirit.
Citt calls a warning bringing me back to the space. "Dad the way is blocked by water", we get together and navigate, the hazard - joined by fellow pilgrims. it makes going forward difficult. The recent rains have made the track a lake. More rain on the way. The country around changes to vineyards, corn. Undulating land not very interesting at all. We cross a beautiful roman bridge with a huge stone Madonna sitting in the middle breaking the back of this 2000 year old structure. The rain gets heavier and it is hot- my coat leaks the seams have lifted. i take off all my clothes except my undies and singlet- that works nothing to get wet under my wet weather gear only me. The trick is to keep out the chill wind.
We are passed by 5 young Spanish girls chatting with fluorescent scarves flashing? They are moving at a fast pace.
Up ahead we know we have 5-10 klms of Industrial Estate Marble processing. Recycling plants and huge factories to walk through it is hot-near-midday. Our guide- book reminds us Saint James passed this way in 5 AD.
Yeah right!
He would not have had the smell of rubbish, plastic, metal recycling plants. With large populations of rats, flies mosquito and Mad security dogs terrifying him through the fences.
But hey this is a a pilgrimage right?
"It is enjoyable!" I say.
"get a life Malcolm". says Pam
"we are almost there", Citt chimes in.
"self, cut the negative talk". I say.
(A huge mastiff tries to tear down the fence to eat us).
"Who let the dogs out" "Woof Woof" sings Citt.
"Stop that stupid song" says Pam.
Who let the cats out? Meow Meow. Sings Citt.
I am in awe the beauty of the past unfolding - a Roman Road - bridges - unchanged paths clothed moss tracks covered with pine and Oak. I hear the creaking of the wood on wood no springs here. The animal toiling under the whip of the centurion in a hurry to get to his house to greet his lover. he watches for the bandits ever present as this is Galicia the land and the place of free spirit.
Citt calls a warning bringing me back to the space. "Dad the way is blocked by water", we get together and navigate, the hazard - joined by fellow pilgrims. it makes going forward difficult. The recent rains have made the track a lake. More rain on the way. The country around changes to vineyards, corn. Undulating land not very interesting at all. We cross a beautiful roman bridge with a huge stone Madonna sitting in the middle breaking the back of this 2000 year old structure. The rain gets heavier and it is hot- my coat leaks the seams have lifted. i take off all my clothes except my undies and singlet- that works nothing to get wet under my wet weather gear only me. The trick is to keep out the chill wind.
 |
| The miltary bridge from roman times. |
We are passed by 5 young Spanish girls chatting with fluorescent scarves flashing? They are moving at a fast pace.
Up ahead we know we have 5-10 klms of Industrial Estate Marble processing. Recycling plants and huge factories to walk through it is hot-near-midday. Our guide- book reminds us Saint James passed this way in 5 AD.
Yeah right!
He would not have had the smell of rubbish, plastic, metal recycling plants. With large populations of rats, flies mosquito and Mad security dogs terrifying him through the fences.
But hey this is a a pilgrimage right?
"It is enjoyable!" I say.
"get a life Malcolm". says Pam
"we are almost there", Citt chimes in.
"self, cut the negative talk". I say.
(A huge mastiff tries to tear down the fence to eat us).
"Who let the dogs out" "Woof Woof" sings Citt.
"Stop that stupid song" says Pam.
Who let the cats out? Meow Meow. Sings Citt.
Anyways onwards through the Industrial areas over the rail lines and into suburbia time for lunch. Now this area is famous for its sheep and wine. After searching around for a restaurant we were directed to a Trade Unions Hall that had a dining room. The best roast lamb served in huge amounts and apple pie that was to die for. We set a benchmark for roast lamb and pie. Portugaise roast lamb is not English roast lamb. It is cooked like a sheep shank with lots of Tubor veges and tomatoes.
This is Porrino and the 5 Spanish girls cackled past us again.
we have still got 18 klms left to walk to Redonella.
The Camino has now changed. We are in Espagna and they know the value of the pilgrim and revere our presence. The lanes become decent walking trails well tended with good rest stops and cafes. Few pilgrims walk from Lisbon to Santiago de Compestella. It is a shame as this is the true pilgrimage of St James as here he worked and preached at Padron and surrounds his body was returned from Jerusalem and he was transported and buried in Santiago de Compestella although this is not our final destination this journey we plan to travel on to Finesterre the end of the earth (fine terra).
The country changes and is very pleasant walking although very hilly. Our afternoon tea stop was at a very loud bar serving alcohol and coffee. The local bikies were out in force and it was a bit worrying for us. Our plan was to stop at a villa along the trail about 1 klm from the bikkie stop but when we got there we found the house was for sale and closed. It was a further 9 klms to Redonella this would make it a 32 klm walk and we had wasted time along the way. Reaching Redonella we again were unsuccesful in finding a bed. The local Alberque had no blankets and we had shipped our sleeping bags home to save weight. What to do.
As always an angel appears directing us to a hole in the wall through which we found a luxury apartment for a pilgrims budget. St James was kind to us that day.
First light and we again head out after a hearty breakfast in the local Pasteleria.
Now I promised to enlarge on a Pasteleria in an earlier post.----------------------------
A Pasteleria is like a Boullangerie in France, but they serve light meals. The cakes pastries and breads are to die for served with scrumptious coffee, fresh juices or milk shakes. They will cut a sandwich from in house smallgoods like a delicatessen. Every town has one various degrees of class and price. Perfecto.
The weather was holding fast sunny days and cool mornings making for great walking.
Walking in this part of Spain is relatively easy there are no real climbs the refreshment stops are well placed and accommodation is not a real problem.
Having walked the French Camino the year earlier my spiritual health was good. I stopped at regular intervals to give thanks at chapels, grottoes and beautiful trees but it was not like my earlier pilgrimage this time I had presence and peace, being in the space being in my self. It is a state I have not experienced before. I have a deep inner peace a serenity of being. I have given thanks for my life and those who have shared with me. Now I am free to enjoy the rest of my journey.
------------------------------
The old roman road takes us close to the Atlantic Ocean winding up and down hills . The rocks in some places are worn by the wheels of the carts of the old roman drays that plyed this route. It was the main roman military road linking Porto and Lisbon to the trading ports in the north and the jump off point for Britain.
The oak trees are going to sleep shedding their acorns and squirrels scurry about collecting dodging us as we pass. The elms poplar and apple are turning gold ready for the cold winter. Our route is due North the weather is cooling 4 days walking left till we reach Santiago de Compestella. Citt predicts rain in 5 days.
We walk on now hardened and fit. Pams' blisters are on the mend. We all need a haircut and a good bath.
We hear the gaggle and rattle of the 5 Spanish girls walking fast.
Passing through beautiful grape country with trellised paths and walkways. Small chapels and grottos mark the route. Water fountains hundreds of years old are there for refreshment. Our morning stop is a bar with 2 very loud girls enjoying the spirit of the occasion serving a great coffee and bread complete with a scollop shell as a souvenir.
Our journey took us to the Town of Arcade.
Lunch stop and the beautiful bridge Ponte Sampaio Here the Portugese forces stopped the march of Napoleon. They blew half the structure away. (Bit hard to walk on water even Napoleon could not do that.)
Onto a large provincial City Pontevedre spiritual cultured and lovely with a Cathedral, Chapels, Restaurants,Tapas bars and ample sleeping accommodation.
We meet up with other pilgrims who we have passed on and off for the past weeks Restaurant Dinner is not served in Spain until 9.00. Always a problem for Pilgrims.
We hear the gaggle and rattle of the 5 Spanish girls walking fast.
Passing through beautiful grape country with trellised paths and walkways. Small chapels and grottos mark the route. Water fountains hundreds of years old are there for refreshment. Our morning stop is a bar with 2 very loud girls enjoying the spirit of the occasion serving a great coffee and bread complete with a scollop shell as a souvenir.
Our journey took us to the Town of Arcade.
Lunch stop and the beautiful bridge Ponte Sampaio Here the Portugese forces stopped the march of Napoleon. They blew half the structure away. (Bit hard to walk on water even Napoleon could not do that.)
Onto a large provincial City Pontevedre spiritual cultured and lovely with a Cathedral, Chapels, Restaurants,Tapas bars and ample sleeping accommodation.
We meet up with other pilgrims who we have passed on and off for the past weeks Restaurant Dinner is not served in Spain until 9.00. Always a problem for Pilgrims.
The weather was holding fast sunny days and cool mornings making for great walking.
Walking in this part of Spain is relatively easy there are no real climbs the refreshment stops are well placed and accommodation is not a real problem.
 |
| Ponte Sampaio |
Having walked the French Camino the year earlier my spiritual health was good. I stopped at regular intervals to give thanks at chapels, grottoes and beautiful trees but it was not like my earlier pilgrimage this time I had presence and peace, being in the space being in my self. It is a state I have not experienced before. I have a deep inner peace a serenity of being. I have given thanks for my life and those who have shared with me. Now I am free to enjoy the rest of my journey.
 |
| The rock and St James |
Our fellow pilgrims had taken the route of St James. Myth has it his body was returned from Jerusalem. It landed on the point of the estuary and then carried to Padron and onto Santiago De Compestella
Padron houses the Chapel of St James and as always it was locked. Venturing up a long line of stairs we sat on the mount where St James held his sessions. A plain rock outcrop and a spring was all it was. Citt had a theory. In the time of St James the area would have been occupied by Pagan people and the site would have been their worship site because of the spring. St James took over the site to deny the Pagans a place of worship. Could be and it worked so gotta be a good strategy.
We opted to continue on the way as there was serious questions if the boat was running from the point to Padron
The walk from Padron following the marked Camino was unevenful passing through surburbia and eucalypt forests, (never nice going into Santiago de Compestella. It is a large city and the old town is only a small part of this suburban mess).
We have a small 15th century house booked in the old town to allow us time to continue onto Finesterre and explore Santiago de Compestella and give us some time to relax.
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| The smoking of the pilgrims Cathedral of St James Santiago de Compestella |
The walk from Padron following the marked Camino was unevenful passing through surburbia and eucalypt forests, (never nice going into Santiago de Compestella. It is a large city and the old town is only a small part of this suburban mess).
We have a small 15th century house booked in the old town to allow us time to continue onto Finesterre and explore Santiago de Compestella and give us some time to relax.
Then we met Fernando.
Finnesterre and FernandoWe hired a small house in the centre of Santiago to see the sites pack up our gear and head for Oxford UK where Citt was graduating from Oxford university.
However the owner of the cottage an obliging fellow offered to take us to Finesterre and surrounds for Lunch.
We did not refuse as it is 30 klms to Finesterre that is 60 round trip and we had just about exhausted our energy.
This is Gallicia.
Fernando showed us the incredible Roman bridge and village.
Driving through hilly coastal country to the coastal region renowned for its seafood, cheese, lamb and fruit.
We sampled a fish dinner Galicia style and it was fabulous. Thank you Fernando.
The next stop after Finesterre is the Americas. Strong wind and rain are daily and fog covers on a daily occurrence. There is a small chapel at the waters edge. I did not go to that chapel
Finester the end of the earth next stop America.
