Searching for Persia: Aras Valley and onto Kurdistan.

Journal Entry 23 October 2011
We decided to travel to the Aras Valley along the Armenian and Azerbaijan borders. For us the area is important as it was a major route on the Silk Road. 
The Aras valley leads from Armenia to Turkey. The roads have been heavily fortified since 1920 when the area was the first line of defense against the Russian juggernaut.

The Aras valley makes up the border north of Tabriz. Our journey will take us along the border looping back to Tabriz. 

The valley has been occupied since prehistoric times. It has been occupied by all the usual suspects and the last lot were the British and the Russians. Once the Persians got rid of that lot, the Armenians and Azerbaijan decided to have a go. The border is still a disputed area between Iran, Armenia and Azerbaijan. Take a good look at the map and you will see that Armenia holds a sliver of land fronting onto Iran. Azerbaijan is split and Azerbaijan is not happy. 


We did not need a military pass but cameras are banned in some sensitive areas. 


The valley is dotted with historic sites. Armenian churches, Zoastrian temples, Caravansaries, forts, barriers and walls, even a Hammam (bath house). The valley ends at the the Caspian Sea where the river empties. 
Short of the Caspian is a mountain range we will cross to get you some magic views. There are ski resorts in the area and 4 star hotels are planned but that is a long way off.

Tomorrow we plan to make an early start to get to Sanandoj in Kurdistan. Then travel along the Iraq border joining the main highway at Hamadan for our run into Esfahan. Probably 4 days time.

23/10/11 Journal entry
Our day started before dawn with our driver waiting at the door. 
The Iranians (Persians) 
They never travel anywhere without a flask of boiling hot tea and some sweets. Tea is taken black, usually with 3 lumps of sugar. Then you put a lump in your mouth after every swig. Then there are sweet cakes and biscuits.  It is a dentist's dream. Not to mention the hypos. Sure have a sweet tooth. 


Off we go! 
Out onto grid locked roads before dawn. There is no room for soft stomachs or poor nerves here mate. There are 2 speeds, stopped and flat out. The pedestrians cross roads, even motorways, with any fear. The drivers have no lanes and no rules. 
You would love it. It is awesome.  
Just wear a seat belt. What seat belt?
Red light. What red light? 
To be fair, they are really good drivers as they do not waste a square metre of road. They do not miss a weakness from another vehicle. Their horn is the best form of warning. 
Yep, mine is louder than yours! Bugger off!  
Most cars have bangs all over them looking like prize fighters on a bad day. 

Citt at the Khaje Nasar Inn Caravanserai with our taxi car.

The cars comprise old models, locally manufactured Peugeot and Hyundai, basic 4 cylinder jobs. There are a lot of BMW 4 X 4 black and flashy. We guessed these were the government or the rich manufacturers.
Fuel
As I can best figure it out, each car is allowed 60 litres of fuel at .45c/litre per month. After that the fuel can be purchased in 20 litre lots at near $2.00/litre. Commercial vehicles are free of all tax and can fill up at designated fuel stops. Most cars are running on LPG but the same rules apply. It all seems good but our trip was to take all day and we were to stop at least 3 times. Each fuel stop has a queue of about 30 cars. With 4 pumps manned by jocks. No more need be said.

The army watch towers all along the roads.

 After stopping to collect some Venezuelan bananas and biscuits for our day we were off into the wilds of the Aras River Valley.

Khaje Nasar Inn Caravanserai 

First stop is the Caravanserai being refurbished, Then onto the most beautiful Christian church, The Church of Saint Stephan. 

Saint Stephan Armenian Christian Church Iran/Azerbaijan border 

Saint Stephan the monk was so successful back in the 1300 spreading his Christian word that the Mullahs took to him and along with 3000 of his followers stoned the lot to death. 

2nd century BC Zoastrian Temple. Fire worship.

 The old church is situated in a valley filled with walnut trees. The site also houses a very well preserved Zoastrian temple.

Saint Stephan Church Iran
It is one of the most spiritual and beautiful places I have ever been in my life. 

The front entrance looking North West

The rest of the day we spent traveling along this wonderful place with history on every corner, ancient and modern. 

The road along the Aras valley

The Hammam was the most humbling experience. Ceramic art work at its best. Arches, domes and pillars all being refurbished. Do not know who will visit. It is totally deserted. Maybe, maybe one day. 

We did not get the shots of the mountains. We became engulfed in fog. 

Travelling into the mountains Aras Valley

We arrived back in Tabriz late. But we got our taxi man to drop us at the Jameil Mosque or the Blue Mosque as it is called because of the ceramic tiles. it is in the state of repair after the last earthquake.

Landscape of the Arras valley

24/11/11 Journal entry.
Bus from Tabriz  to Sanadoj Kurdistan.
Again and early start, too early for our hotel to supply brekkie. The buses were not booking when we got to the bus station. 

A bus take a close look at the back.

Getting going at the bus station.

We had tea in the shop. Then found the best local food in the way of hot bread biskit honey and fetta. Man that is the best honey in the world.

MMMM the best breakfast in the East. Fresh bread biskit, honey and fetta.

We spent all day on the bus and had a good time with the other people on the bus, 
Our stay in Iran had only been 3 days but we have found only kindness, hospitality and interest from all the people. (except those #$(&^ heads on the bus from the border) but hey, shit happens.

Our driver, jockey and spare man. Note the nose job.

Arrived in Sandoj in the dark. It was packed with people and busy as all. There is no English only Farsi here and we got a little lost. Eventually ended up in a hotel cost $12 for two. And was probably the worst hotel I have ever stayed in other than a hotel in Gua Masang in Malaysia. 
Still what do you expect for $6?
The silver lining is we are in Kurd country and they are all in their native clothes with poo catcher trousers, sashes and scarves. We loved the feel. 
Went out to a restaurant for dinner. It was the most unusual place and of course as always we got involved with a wedding party. Yep, everyone has some relatives in Sydney even folks from Sanandoj in Kurdistan Iran. 

Restaurant in Kurdish country Sanandoj

We had a great time. Gotta tell you this one. 
Citt went to the toilet and came back with a strange look on her face. 
She exclaimed the toilets are multi sexual.


25/11/11
Tomorrow we travel to the mountains along the Iraq border. It will maybe take us a couple of days. We do not know what to expect as we are told there is no transport or hotels. 
The reason we are going? 
Beause it is the heart of Kurdistan and we can.


We will just wing it. 
It always works.