Friday 24 October 2014

Camino de Santiago de Compestella Portugaise. Spanish Border.

Hi readers
How is it that some days the pack is light and some days I swear there are bricks in it! And how come the coffee breaks are such a long way in between. Some days I walk and listen to the birds song, I concentrate on the crunch of boots on gravel, the pain of cobbles on the soles of my feet through boot hour on hour with my poles getting caught in the small cracks. Then I fall into a thought pattern. Marvelling at the wonderful things that have happened to me in my life.

Of course it follows this is why I am walking the "Way of St James" to give thanks it is even better to have my dearest wife and daughter to be on this path together. And then there is you.

I do not know what you are thinking of this journal but I hope one day you can feel the wind and rain the warm sunshine, the steep hills, long valleys of corn, olives, eucalyptus forests, cork oak forests. The pungent smell of the piggeries, feed lots, chicken farms. Hear the peel of the church bells ringing out loud, some digitalised , others just good old fashioned bells giving the hour. Dogs bark frantically as we pass by their gates.

It is coming on winter.
We have walked 500 klms North from Lisbon through a Industrial complexes, busy roads, flooded bush tracks, medieval villages- locked and in disrepair resembling a war zone. Huge Quintas and manor houses falling down, we are in disbelief. This is Portugal.

 Then there was Opporto. Home of Port wine, vibrant alive with huge block churches solid stone houses, streets narrow houses painted in vibrant colour, the rail station huge murals of a thousand tile-art work depicting battles, peasent scenes, rural harvests.  Gives me the feeling this is a socialist country. Of course I am correct.
 Oporto is a wonderful city built on the steep banks of the Douro River. Catherine bought us some time in a beautiful apartment right on the river as a gift for my 70th birthday we spent a couple of days loving this city.

Now we are a days walk from the Spanish border. The locals are finishing the olive harvest. The grape vines are turning red. Poplar, Elm, Oak leaves fall all around as we pass through the lanes copses and old roman roads. We have passed through the Douro giving the dark full blooded red wines we are now in the Vinho Verde region giving wines of pale colour with a texture that slides off the palate with slight fizzy taste. The country has changed from river flats to rolling hills making our progress slower. However our fitness is good.

Our physical condition has improved. Pam had blister on blister. These seem to be under control. Citt did well with no training, had niggles but held out. My back has progressively improved with assistance from modern antiinflammatory drugs.  I would like to think my faith gave me strength.

I walk the way of St James with light heart. I go on my pilgrimage through this land filled with crosses churches (always locked). niches filled with effigy of people. These to me an era past.  I feel the spirit of those in whose footsteps I tread. Those who have offered kindness, understanding and tolerance.   This to me is the true spirit.
Buon Camino.


Tuesday 14 October 2014

Camino de Santiago de Compestella 340 kms to go.

Hi readers a lot has happened since my last post in short the weather has changed. Portugal is having the wettest October for 80 years.  Seems the weather is not behaving. Citt reckons there is more on the way with a huge low coming in off the Atlantic next week.

Anyways we were walking along a Roman road on a Sunday morning happy happy

3 hours out of Rabacal  on a desolate  hill with Sunday pheasant shooters with big guns going boom boom.
Me with bright red coat and Citt whistling Dixie. Pam thought the whole gun thing was silly but the dogs worried her.

Then a huge mob of Sunday cyclists came from nowhere 20 Mountain bikes going hell for leather in some sort of race. Not fun for us on a mountain track. Get out of the way.

THEN THE HEAVENS OPENED. It started to rain not tippy rain, but like real rain lots of it. Our problem or my problem was my rain coat had split. Pam's problem she had no rain pants.  Citt's problem was she had a hole in her coat and did not think it worth putting on her real wet gear.

Imagine 3 hours walking in pouring rain we made for the main road and stayed on it to Rabacal.
There boots full of water, clothes soaked, cold and miserable we took stock. 3.00 in the afternoon. No sign of the rain stopping. Next day forecast more of the same. What to do?
Result. We took a taxi to the next big town Coimbra. Booked into a pension. Stripped off all our gear. Had a hot shower. Got into dry gear and went out with brollies and had some  excellent wine at he local restaurant.
Next day we took all our stinky gear to the laundromat let them deal with it.

The  countryside we are walking is truly magnificent. Vines, Olive trees, eucalypt forests, cork- oak forests, orchards of apple and pomegranate. Old villages half deserted but proud. The ceramic tiles depicting scenes of hunting fishing tending crops and being entertained adorn  each house. We surmise and make stories of where the occupants are. One beautiful old house I am sure the owners had moved to Ingham NQ Australia in the 50s.

We are 345 klms from Santiago de Compestella. 3 days walk out of Opporto.

I received this quote from my mate Mike Scales and it pretty well says it all.

"The Camino offers many things to many people, each comes on the journey with their own  motivations - but all are united by the common goal of reaching Santiago. For centuries the Camino de Santiago has been a great teacher and leveller, all those who travel it's path connect with simplicity and are changed in some way, great or small."

I am tired now having walked 26 klms from Coimbra. 
Pam is asleep and Citt is too. 
I wanted to tell you about the pasteleiro shops but will save it till I have a bit more energy. 
Oh we had the local speciality for dinner. 
suckling pig with crispy potatoes and green salad
New goats cheese, olives, bread
With a Douro unwooded 2009 vino 
Ah the joy of being a Pergrino
Bom Camino my friends. 
Ah the perils of a Perigrino! 

Saturday 11 October 2014

200 kms Camino de Santiago dde Compestella Portugaise

Hi readers.
Our walk When I say ours I mean Citt, Pam and me then of course there is you. We have now been walking  10 days from Lisbon. Pam has bad blisters which we are now addressing with lightened load  a needle and antiseptic. Her little toe looks like pulp. Citt is well with a small pack and lots of spirit. Me my back is a conundrum. When I have not got my pack on I can hardly walk. When I put on my pack I is just OK I adjust the pain with voltaren anti  inflammatory. So it seems St James has decided he wants me to make the journey to Santiago de Compestella plus pack. After doing my thing there I guess I will just have to keep on my pack and continue travelling right?

Anyways the journey has turned into a pilgrimage encompassing wine and food. The locals love to eat and drink? And why not the food is fresh out of the most georgeous vege gardens, fruit trees loaded with figs, pomegranates, citrus, apples, grapes and others. The wine is fantastic. Red wine so thick and smooth - red sticking to the glass as you sip.  Soups of bean, sausage, lentils greens goodness in every spoon always bread made light fluffy with crisp crust. Chicken, beef, pork served hot spicy or grilled it is embarrassing the size of the serves. Then the sweets cheeses, flans, tarts! Portugese specialty custards and creams.  Pam says write about the delicious coffee served anywhere .50c or with milk .75c. They say one loses weight on the Camino. I will let you be the judge? But it is good.

Ansiao 200 kms.
At a small town for a forced stop to repair Pam's feet. We walked a 36 km leg yesterday as we got lost due to the loggers knocking out the signs. There was no accommodation so had to carry on to Alveizere a modern town with no people, no cars, weird. The distance knocked us about as the terrain was hilly and road rough. We walked for 10 hours.  The pilgrim trail follows on the original Roman road. High rock walls and intact stone bridges. Stone villas deserted, modern houses with gardens overgrown. Olive groves gone to ruin, orchards overgrown with weeds, austerity measures has hit the poor farmers it is all deserted.
On a brighter vein the ancient ruins, medieval churches, Quintas, and Manor houses are terrific. Some of the Quintas and Manors we have found refuge. And they are magic places.
The government is taking time to mark the Camino as I am sure they see us as an income stream. We three feel we are doing this journey at the right time. We have no problems with beds, food. We are made welcome at all times.
For me this is a different experience to the Francaise. There are few pilgrims, the restaurants and hostels are more hospitable with sheets towels and blankets. We feel as if we are three pilgrims doing our thing.

'You can be by yourself but you are never alone'.
Bom Camino.

I cannot load images from this little iPad sad.  

Sunday 5 October 2014

Walking to Santiago de Compestela Potugal

Hello reader it is a long time since I have written anything to you. I have been travelling over the last year across the Eurasian continent from Spain to China. On the route of the old Silk Road Pam travelled with me she was injured but still going strong. We took near 4 months to complete a shortened journey.
In Ocober 2013 I went in search of Rhinos in India calling my journey "in the shadows of the Himalayas"  Truly an inspiring part of the world. Mighty mountains monasteries elephant and the great grasslands of the Brahmaputra River flood lands where tea is the industry. Here also live the it white Rhinoceros safe in the Kazaringa national Park. In Assam province.
The bloodiest battle of world war 11. The battle of Kohima and the siege of Imphal. This battle changed the war in the Pacific defeating the Japanese with losses of 56,000 soldiers. The Americans were here flying DC3 over 'the hump' supplying Chang Kai Chek nationalist forces against a million Japanese soldiers.
It was very surreal to be in Nagaland viewing remnants of those battles the sacrifices of these soldiers went unheralded. Indeed the dubbed the forgotten battle but one that swung the pendulum against the Japanese army. But that was 1944 and now it is 2013. I do not think the lives of the Indian has changed a lot. My advice to anyone contemplating this journey is to be sure to pick the right season. It rains a lot and the snows will stop vehicles above 12000 feet 4000 metres. Sept to Nov is best.



Some people ask why do this walking such long distances? My answer walking gives time to reflect an meet others with stories to tell.
Best summed up by the Poet Kahir
Friend hope for the truth while you are alive
Jump into experience while you are alive
Think and think while you are alive
What is called Salvation, is time before death
If you don't break your ropes while you are alive
Do you think Ghosts will do it after.?

Pam and I started walking in Lisbon Portugal. Citt joined us in Villefranco de Xira.  I am writing this brief in Satarem 95 kilometres from Lisbon. I have a serious back problem and may not make the distance. But yep I will give it my best shot.
The journey is one of pilgrimage walking the way of St James. The Portuguese way is not so popular only contributing 18% of pilgrims. The way Francais is the major route made famous in Estevez movie "the way" starring his father Martin Sheene.
To date we have walked through 70 kilometres of heavy industrial factories along the river Teijo. We have now passed into the market garden areas of Portugal. With neat rows of cabbage, tomato, corn and  edible vegetables. The villages are deserted. Corporations have bought all the land and have mechanised with foreign labour. We have met Indians from the Punjab. Polkas and Ukrainian workers all the local residents have moved to cities it is sad but one day they will return I am sure. The walk is now taking us along the top of the huge dikes built for flood mitigation.
The weather has been hot. In fact it is so hot the palms are dying we are told it is changing rapidly. The weather looks to change in a day or so. Cit has the maps and predicts rain tomorrow and Wednesday. The city of  Santarem is the seat of the last Kings now long gone. What I have seen is pretty good with lovely buildings churches and well laid out gardens. We are made welcome with random acts of kindness that are always surprising.
I will leave it here and promise to fill you in some more. Oh a normal day on the Camino.
6.45 alarm
7.30 start walking
9.30-10.00 coffee roll or pastry       €2
12.30-13.30 lunch roll water or soft drink. €3
3.30 start looking for a bed
5.00 accommodation           € 15
7.30-8.00 meal.  € 10-12
Chocolate coffees and fruit we buy on the road.

$A1. = €.63.  
Bon Camino.

Friday 7 February 2014

You ask about my Camino my reflections April-May 2013

Hola
You ask about my Camino. There is really only one reason for my pilgrimage to Santiago de Compestella, to make thanks for my blessed life and to ask for a healthy fruitful life for our children and their children, our families and friends.
My awakening 2005. I had a doctor tell me that there is a cancer in my body and that is quite a shock. I thought  of my  family, my friends. I thought of my life. It all flashed by in seconds. Then reality set in, cash, hospitals and fear of the unknown. Fear for my family, fear for what lay ahead.

The operation for the first cancer and all the complications associated with it passed after a year. Then another cancer 2008. More fear, hospitals, cash, loss of income, time time time. Somehow somewhere my buttons were being pressed.
The universe said to us it was time to change life style. Two years later we found space.  Breathing became easier and sleep did not elude. Then realisation struck. I needed to give thanks for my blessings.
The Way
Catherine told me, but Cherie Ashton actually did it in 2011. I saw " The Way" the movie.  The seed was germinated, it resonated and I knew I would walk a pilgrimage and thank St James for my blessings in life.
At the gates St John Pied de Port Franc 820 kms to Santiago de Compestella
 It took 18 months for us to actually get to the point where the time was now.

The Way
The way is really difficult from St John Peid de Port. It climbs to 1500 m crossing the Pyrenees on a 34kms stretch. I did it in an 8 and 26km shot. The Camino at that point goes straight up to the top of the pass and then of course it comes down  down down 10 km walk. 

The other side ends up in Roncevalles Espagna.  Roncevalles to Pamplona is beautiful, my walk the season of wild flowers and blossoms, gorgeous weather. I was getting used to the country, language, people and the lack of privacy in the Alberques (church hostels with dormitories).
Pamplona the weather was beautiful but when I got there I couldn't step over the doorstep. My right leg throbbed with sciatic pain, my left  leg was a sickly yellow. I spent the next day in the sun sitting in the courtyard massaging legs.
The weather changed.  It was becoming cold and windy, we were walking in the rain.  So I was sick. I had a deep chest chill, my legs refused to work. I didn't know what to do. My friend had walked on, so I was in a mess. It was cold. I was really cold, it was very windy. An angel-Peregrino took me to a doctor who prescribed rest, medicines and a warm bed for a couple of days. So I spent three days in a hotel outside of Burgos taking medicine and exercising my legs. I had a long talk to my girls which was an unbelievable tonic. Then I went back to Burgos and decided I would do a small 12 km walk that day.
Faith, if I believe, angels will appear!


I walked the first village, the Alberque was full. I ended up in a small village 3 kms on.  An Alberque with a strange Hospitelera however she was to be my angel. She was a devotee of the way of St James, these are the people who care for the paths and those who walk upon it, spiritually and physically. She took time to educate me on the Way. The spiritual strength, the mental strength needed and then I understood. I adjusted my mental thinking. I adjusted the expectations of my physical capabilities. I readjusted my pack then focused on my goal which was to thank St James for my life, my family, my friends and my health and all my life's blessings through prayer and meditation

It was then I believed in the Way. I never worried about meals. I never worried about food. I believed that where ever I was, whatever I needed the way would care for me. Only then did I become a true pilgrim on the way of St James.


San Marco Paragon Hotel and Pantheon the original alberque
There are many spiritual sites on the Way. Grand Cathedrals, Pantheons, Churches, Holy crosses, graves and quiet areas that drew me to them (the spirit of millions of pilgrims who had passed this way pervaded all of the way).  I spent a great deal of time praying and meditating thinking about of my life, thinking about the people I love, thinking about what a wonderful life I've had praying at every opportunity.
The Way itself is wonderful. It passes through Alpine regions with quaint villages stuck in the 15th century; it passes through areas of high industrialised action; it passes through areas where there are few people at all; old 15 century villages and the churches all locked. It is sad but it is 2013.



When it passes  into the Rioja region it becomes wonderful, absolutely wonderful. I felt myself falling in love with this place called Spain. The vineyards, the old villages, the new villages, the towns, the style, the food, the friendship, the pride in their language. I just loved it and the further I travelled along the Way towards Santiago the more I became involved in the Spanish way of life.

I resonated with this area. My mother's ancestors came from this area, leaving it in the 15th century during the Spanish Inquisition. We immigrated to the Flemish areas now Holland.

Closer to Santiago the region of Galicia is heavily wooded with eucalyptus for the pulp industry. It is the first landfall for the Atlantic winds. At this point the weather changes dramatically and the country changes to lush green forests, the vineyards not so prevalent and the soil is fairly leeched but they grow pigs, chickens and dairy. The area is famous for its milk, cheese, creams and yogurts. The walking becomes quite difficult. The  map says it is fairly straight but it has heavy undulations 400 to 500 metres down and up, this carries on for quite a long time and it is hard walking because you walk up the hill. You get sweaty and walk down and get cold. I found it extremely difficult This is the area where the tourists come to walk the Way. It is 100 km walk, the tracks are fairly well worn and the Alberques are crowded.
The Way threw many challenges with weather conditions. Hot sun, cold winds, rain, mist, snow, ice showers and a blizzard. 
On the road out of Ceberia in a snowstorm many of the Perigrinos were rescued and transported down the mountain. They were not equipped for zero and heavy snow.
They said it was the first time it had snowed in May in 60 years and the average temperature was the lowest for this period on record. But faith and belief overcomes minor obstacles to the final goal.
I walked by myself but I was not alone. Perigrinos love to talk about their lives and dreams as they walk and eat. A lone Peregrino is a target.
I relished silent periods, the steady crunchy sounds of my boots on track and the rhythmic creaks of my pack harness, concentrating on my breathing pattern. At these times I mentally rewound my life year by year - long goodbyes to loved ones past, recognising mistakes and recognising achievements.
For me entering Santiago was overwhelming. I went to the  cathedral on the 25th May. The city was crowded it was Saturday. A Star Wars spectacular in the main square. The cathedral was busy. I found a small chapel to the side of the main altar. I could not get to St James, he was too busy on that day so I prayed in the small chapel. I stayed there for an hour meditating and praying and I felt a great peace. 


My journey was nearly over.
While in Santiago I stayed at the Seminary Minos. It was fitting that I should stay in a monks cell. I found it peaceful with time to recollect and set my mind to re-enter the commercial world.
The  following morning I went to the cathedral mass at 10 o'clock and witnessed the bombardilo being swung from the roof. It was.just wonderful.
The afternoon I wandered the Cathedral visiting Saint James. I put my head on his shoulder and thanked him again for all my blessings in life.  I visited his crypt below the altar to pay further homage. I felt free and a deep peace.

My credencia shows I started my pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago de Compestella France On the 19th April 2013 and completed on the 26th of May 2013. The distance is app 820 kms.








Celebration!! I went to a restaurant and had a typical Galicia meal of thick fish soup and octopus Pulpoa fresh Ciabatta bread and Galicia Tart washed down with exquisite white wine and a coffee to die for. I then went to the train station purchasing a ticket for San Sebastián.

The next morning I left Santiago on the train for a 9 hour train journey to San Sebastián. Pam was on the Paris train next day and I was excited at the prospect of seeing her again.




You ask how I pulled up, at peace mentally, sore physically, enlightened spiritually.

Thanks for asking.
Bon Camino
Malcolm

Now Pam and I travel on together following the Silk Road from the Atlantic to the Pacific overland using public transport via Central Asia and China.


Links to the journey pictures, 
Camino De Santaiago de Compestella
cut n Paste