In search of Persia: Tehran Capital of Iran journeys end,

Journal entry 14/11/11

Train pulls into Tehran central station. 
This is the city of Persians.

Waiting for the very late night train to Tehran

Tehran central station

We hop off. 
Tehran Central is the same as all central stations anywhere in the world busy and bustling. The difference is there is no coffee houses or places to sit and get our bearings or meet.
No matter we head off and catch the subway on our way to find a hotel. There are plenty of hotels and we find one in a good neighbourhood that is clean and the staff friendly. It is to be our last hotel on this journey. 
Tehran is a huge city 8,400,000 people. It sits in a valley surrounded by mountains. It featured as a major trading city on the Silk Road for 2000 years. It had been snowing overnight,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tehran
We found it to be a modern city albeit stuck in the 70s with ageing architecture and dull shops. A metro system is partially completed by a French company and extensions to the system are on hold because of the boycott by Western Nations. Tehran is reported to be the world's cheapest city to live in. We found it to be pleasant, but the traffic was horrific due to the lack of infrastructure.
Of late there has been civil disturbances not reported in the Western press due to control of the press and travel restrictions. The students demand freedom of the press, women want liberty and equality.

We spend the next two days enjoying the sites of the city 

The Peacock Throne

Shah Pavlovi summer palace for Guests

We visit:

1. Shah's Summer Palace as it was in 1979 when the Pavlov's left for exile
2. The Jewelery museum is breathtaking. And to think the Shah took a lot with him into exile. It is staggering the amount of jewels, gold and silver . The Peacock Throne is a  treasure beyond value. Ceremonial urns, chalices, crowns and swords. There is nothing like it anywhere. We thought the Ayotollahs had broken it all up. But no, it is there for future generations to see.
3. The original Golostan Royal Palace used by Shahs back to the 16th century. It is there in all its glory in good condition, fully furnished
4. The Bazaar [and yes we did buy a carpet it is a Kerman Kilim / colour of the desert]. We wandered the gold market and bought some souvenirs gold and silk. 

Golostan Palace  Throne Room

Just one of the royal Crowns in the Jewel museum

Journal entry 16/11/11 
It was time to say goodbye to Persia. 

Citt and I got on the subway to ride the end of the line to get closer to the airport. The train stops 20km from the airport and it is necessary to get a taxi from there. As always we had attracted a group of young people who tagged along. They cheerfully guided us continually asking questions.  They got me to the correct area for a taxi. 

Citt bid me goodbye and sent wishes to all her friends as she shut the cab door on me. (Citt was leaving next day for Kyrgystan.) The Persians cheered as they sent me on my way.

I had a lump in my throat and an overwhelming urge to cry as we travelled on the road to the airport.
My mind was racing full of faces and places. 

The guy on the bike at the border, a Hammam in the hostile Azerbijian border region, the houses cut from stone, the wonderous carpet Bazaar of Tabriz, honey on fresh hot crisp  bread with goats cheese for breakfast, long bus rides with hospitable locals and lots of laughs. The sound of the police-man crunching the CDs containing beautiful music, our Kurds in the car taking us along with half the farm mad music blaring, the  Esfahan Square with country folk riding old sulkies on a Sunday afternoon, women in black shadur swishing past mysteriously, the Christian Armenian cafes with huge meat meals and big fat cheery hosts, kebabs and more kebabs, grilled, broiled or just burnt, chicken, beef but no pork, ceramic covered mosques, citadels some still standing from biblical times, caravanserais still in use  hundreds of years after the last camel train passed on the silk road.  Banders, Kurds, Turkmanis, Persian, Baluchi, Jews, Turks, Assyrians and other tribes, the fish factory and our host  Hojat, Arab dhows, the beautiul and hospitable family in Shiraz. Persepolis, summer palace of the Persian kings, Kerman, Moshad, and the Shahs Garden carved out of the desert, the richness of  pomegranate juice over fresh salad, cold ice sweets, baklava and lucsious sesame seed Hulva, the engneering genius of the Quanut channels. Mosques, Christian churches, Synagogues, Zoastrian, Hindu temples, Shiite, Bhahi, Sunni diverse, friendly, hospitable people who made sure we would never get lost always sharing their food. Little kids loving the fun of a twisty balloon. 

There is so many untruths about these people of Iran. 

The truth was told early "that one never tells a Persian what to do". I do believe it!

Malcolm Williams-- Journeyman - blogger

 It vexed me as the plane taxied down the runway preparing to fly away from this mystic land.

Have I really found what I came in search of? .... Persia

In search of Persia the Royal City of Persepolis and the desert people of Yazd,

Journal entry 8/11/2012
The flight from Bander took a mere hour saving us 9 hours on a bus. Valuable time now as we had to visit Shiraz and bus it to Yazd then onto Tehran on the night train.  My flight was the 16th out of Tehran to KL, time was now of the essence. Citt needed to extend her visa. Our information, the best place was Shiraz.

The intrepid travellers. Citt and Malcolm Williams (Blogger)

Shiraz 

There is no Shiraz in Shiraz. (not since 1979 revolution)
We arrived in Shiraz on the last flight out of Bander. It was near 1.00 am when we sought a taxi. The cabbie was a cheery bloke. He had a brother in Sydney (but they all seem to have a brother or uncle in Sydney). He was a fan of Harry Kewell and Mark Schwartz. His comments were pretty pointed as far as the government and clergy were concerned. "Too many domes and dead bodies in this country. We live in the past, it is time to get together and live life". 
Shiraz is a Holy City Pilgrims flock here to the silver mosque (Aramagh E Shah E Cherh). The burial place of Sayyed Mir Ahmad whom was murdered on this site in the 12th century, I will add an image later but first we gotta get a bed. 
Now we got to this hotel. (The cabbie wished us well and asked if we wanted to go to one he recommended.  "Hindsight is a wonderful thing", The clerk was onto us. At 2.00am he started to tap us up for a tour of Persepolis and beyond. Then hit us with a huge charge for the room. Taking cash and a deposit for the room. He got very indignant when we would not hand over the cash until we got a receipt. Cheeky bugger.

Morning
The very expensive room was comfortable and had hot water. Brekkie was included it was served in the most bizzare room. It was a huge room like a ballroom. The tables were in the middle and the food was around it on the walls. It had no windows and dinghy lights. 

The Citadel Shiraz

Citt did not say much as we slung our packs and headed downstairs to check out and get our deposit back. I knew she was waiting for "happy" to be on the desk. I reckoned this would be good but alas it did not happen he had gone. We did spot him spruiking to some poor unsuspecting tourists at Persepolis later.

The phone at the police station.  Ugh Oh does this mean something?

Our mission today was to find a hotel room and then get to the police station for Citt to extend her visa. Finding a hotel and securing a Visa took about 2 hours and our mission was done. The police were great after some money was paid in the right places and Citt was good to go.

Iran is famous for its stained glass and coloured mirrors. 

The beautiful ceramics of Iran

Shiraz is a beautiful city known as the city of art, poetry, wine and flowers, The seat of rich merchants since early times population 1,500mil.  Dating from 4000BC. Nearby is the Summer Palace of Persepolis. The summer palace built by Darius the great and destroyed by Alexander on his march over the Persians in 203AD.

Frescoes of Darius

Persepolis 
The centre of the known universe. Persian Empire 300BC
The meeting place for all subject in the Kingdom of Persia.
The Summer Palace of Darius the Great 300 BC 

The gates of Persepolits for the common people. The lions are symbolic guardians.

Alexander the Great 230AD was the first to vandalise and rob this Palace it is said he had a caravan of 300 camels and mules to carry  the gold and silver from the royal vaults. Since then it has been ripped apart by marauders and colonial powers. They say the best art and artifacts making up Persepolis are in The Louvre Paris. However the majesty of the place still remains. It is set high on a plinth cut out of a mountain.  

The site Persepolis the summer palace of Darius the Great 300BC

I first read of this place as a small boy. In our house the book case held "Great wonders of the ancient world". I loved this book and wanted to visit the temples and monuments illustrated in it. This was one of them, unfortunately in 1979 the door to Iran slammed shut due to the Islamic revolution. But life has a way of manifesting so here I am with my daughter who is as passionate as I. 

One of the last tea houses Shiraz. They had traditonal musicians playing for donation.

Aramamgah-E Shah_E Cheragh Tomb and Mosque

The town hall

We spent 2 days visiting the Mosques, Citadel and the many merchants houses open as historical museums. The Bazaar houses a carpet auction room. 
Our wish was to buy a carpet but we were told to wait till Tehran, the carpets were more varied and we could travel lighter on the remainder of our journey.

Carpet Bazaar Central Shiraz

Bazaar for the Bedouins

It is said "The journey is more important than the destination". And so it is. During the day we met a young man who took a keen interest in us and our stories. He at the end of our stay invited us to meet his family for a meal. He had been part educated in Australia while his father was studying and traveling the Outback of Australia gathering information for his thesis on "agriculture in the desert". 

That evening we spent with this family was to be not only enjoyabel but beneficial to Citt as the Dad was  a Professor at the University of Shiraz. He had a professional interest in Ethnic people and he had PhD at Macquarie University NSW. Citt and he disappeared into deep conversation. Citt is a specialist on Climate and effect on ethnic tribes

Look at this beautiful Family in Shiraz Citt 5th Right Professor and me 4 & 5 right.

The mother was a keen cook and she and I matched notes cooking in Australia vis avis Iran. She uses the SBS cook book. (That blew me away).
 It was very very late when we said our sad goodbyes to the warm hospitality and stories of this land called Persia. We were catching the first Bus to Yazd on the morrow,

Someone got away with this take a look.

Journal entry 11/11/12

Yazd

After a long 8 hours on a bus we arrived at the Silk Road Hotel, a modernised caravanserai situated in the ancient city walls.

Caravanserai in Yazd still as it was but for airconditioning and water.

Interior of the caravanserai

This place steps back in time. The ancient buildings are all still intact. The people are not modernised. They offer quiet respectfulness and go about their business.

Jahmal Mosque

Ahmir Chamaqu Complex market and mosque

2 good people form Yazd. One of those things you meet all the time eventually you talk.

Artist at work on a prcelain Vase in Alexanders  Artiste Prision

Around Yazd
These are the last of the Zoastrians. Here we see the Pillars of Silence, their temple high in mountains. Old cities deserted, occupied by carrion crows and sheep. The Quanat still running clean pure water from the mountains. A fee of 20c gets us into this city.

Zyoastrian hideaway temple Chak Chak

Zoastrian Temple Chak Chak

Ardakan ruins 

Citt at the Arakan ruins

Qanat system working well

Ardakan ruins

The old ice storage building in Abarque/Maeybod

We see hude ancient ice storage silos. Huge citadels ruined by earthquakes and maurauders. An ancient gym with an exercise programme like no other. The Bazaar is varied and huge with mosques and places of worship. 

Great mode of transport

Within the Bazaar are caravanserais still operating as hotels. Gold is in the markets, workmanship of the pieces is superb and the cost is the weight of the gold.

Yazd caravanerai main bedroom

Take a look at this Gymnasium practicing  the ancient persian strength exercises, Real very real.
http://youtu.be/gniQYt4VKqc
This city is a gem among the cities of the world and to us one of the most intriguing.
Sadly we must leave and we book the night train for Tehran the last city we will visit in our search for Persia.

Journal entry 14/11/12
The night train is a nightmare as men cannot travel in the same carriage as women and foreigners are not welcome. So we end up together after 3 moves. I would not leave Citt nor she me. We gave them a bit of a problem. 

Yes really, you bet (: ?

In search of Persia: Persian Gulf

Journal Entry 4/11/2011
Bander e Abbas 
Persian Gulf Iran.

Bander e Abbas The Hormuz straits  between the Arabian Sea and the Gulf

Our day started with the Usual breakfast of boiled egg, goats cheese, flat bread washed down with copious amounts of tea sweetened to distraction. A word on the restaurant. This room had 2 metre ceiling brightly painted giving the feeling of it falling in on you. Mate fair dinkum gave us indigestion eating those hard boiled cold eggs with a mosaic on our heads. 


Some background: Bander Abbas is situated to the South of Iran. It affords deep water access to the Amman Sea and the Indian Ocean for Iran. Strategically situated at the narrowest point on the straits. Through here 70% of the worlds oil supplies pass. There is an added threat from terrorists from Saudi and Yemen. 

Map of Bander e Abbas

The port area where we were staying is a smugglers paradise. This is big business, hi speed catamarans painted black run the the Straits.  
We figured it was not a savory place to loiter.
Our aim was to visit the historic Qeshm Island the Abu Dhabi of Iran. A Tax free Zone.


I know, you'll say "what in the heck are you doing there"?

Fast air conditioned Ferry to Qeshm Island

Ferries to Qeshm Island are modern and fast but there is one big catch. If the weather gets up the ferries stop. Problem!  We had a plane booked out of Bander Abbas for Shiraz and time was fast running out. Our aim was to visit ethnic villages where the traditional Arab Dowhes are made and repaired. This boats design has not changed for hundreds of years. It plys the trade routes as far south as India. Our curiosity was piqued and we were keen to see the villagers and the ship yards. Citt had an interest in the Bander people. (Bander meaning coastal) They look like Arabs but with  Iranian traditions and the men dress in pure white clothing. The women wear colorful masks and bright clothes. Adorned with  lots of golden jewelry and bling reminiscent of India.

Local Bander girl and Citt in our hotel

The history of this place is colorful all world colonial powers have had a go. The Arabs, Portugese, English, Russians and of course the French. Reminders of past eras mark the waterfront points, ruined forts, gun emplacements and now Chinese stinger missiles. It is as flat as a pancake with little or no vegetation devoid of trees.(It was peaceful during our brief stay).

There I go again getting away from our journey In search of Persia.
We walked out of our hotel into a sticky hot morning with rain threatening, On our way to the ferry we noticed a man in a suit pulling a suit case. We did not realise that over the next 3 days Hojat Sallamallahahzscleh was to be very real in our lives. Arriving at the ticket office Hojat helped us to buy our airconditioned ferry ticket and showed us the way to the boat. 

Little kid waiting for his balloon and Mr Twisty

We both  had fun on the boat me Mr Twisty and Citt with meeting and inadvertantly interviewing without record people, information on the outside world in return information about their lives the  country its government and the current problems.
Arriving in port Hojat found us and asked us the usual where are you staying and how long. He invited us to join hi in his limo and we set off to find a hotel. The place was chokkers, He invited us to stay at his apartment. We were suspicous and reluctant to take hospitality from a complete stranger, given the dodgey area we felt really uncomfortable. In the end he took us to a relatives new hotel on the outskirts of town,

Our Hotel Queshm Island

All well and good, so we thought. We settled in and changed to a nonsmoking room. Citt was not well having picked up a flu on the bus. I ventured downstairs to enquire the cost of our accommadation and was politely told. "you are the guests of the Mr Hojat Sallamallahahzscleh owner of the  fish factory. A car will be here tomorrow to show you around the island and visit the fish factory for lunch. There is no charge for this hotel, you are our guests. So please rest and enjoy. There is tea in the kitchen for you".

We were amazed at the hospitality of this man. (In hindsight most of the Iranians we met were hospitable. They told us it was the custom of the land to welcome travelers and strangers. We heard tales of their land and the problems with the extremist government).  I am a balloon artist and loved having fun with the kids. Citt is a good ambassador and professional interviewer. 
He must have reckoned we were very, very good Aussies. He got that in one.  :)
We enjoyed the hospitality and the friendship offered. We were to find out he was influential and rich. But that is another story.


Over the next day.
We rested and looked forward to our visit to the fish factory and a tour of the island. Citt was not well.  She had collected a virus and was run down after a huge 14 days traveling. The hotel was quiet and comfortable. We only ventured into the town for internet contacts and food. The town was awful. Someone in Tehran had stuffed up if they thought this would be a rival to Dubai. The food was a mixture of Arab and Iranian. Fish was on the menu. Our taste buds had tired of Kebab. !!!

The view from the fish farm.

Journal entry Sunday 6th November 2011  The car arrived early to take us to the farm and an island journey. It looked like a big day.

The fish factory was an eye opener. The trawlers were contracted boats with full crew from Thailand. Hojat told us he was negotiating for 10 Chinese boats to enlarge his fleet.  The catch is small blue eye fish at a depth of 250 meters. They turn these little 2cm blue eyes into fish meal for the fish farms. The factory sits high on a cliff overlooking the straits of Hormuz. The horizon features gas platforms in the sea with huge flames coming from the burners. At the time of our visit the factory was having flash freezers and kitchens installed to maximize the extra catch, shark and fish to fillets for domestic markets. Value add.

Citt our Benefactor  Hojat Sallamallahahzscleh
Me and the Manager Hakan

Our benefactor owned fish farms, chicken farms and orchards. 


After a great meal and chat through interpreters we were taken to the bus station for our journey around the island.

Local camels. 

The sand castles

The island is a long sliver of sand with a UNESCO listed mangrove forest. 

Mangroves and Citt

The main attraction is sand castles and old smugglers caves cut out of the sand which is like a soft sandstone.  The island has very little rain. 

Local tourists

Citt makes friends with the locals

As always we met and talked with groups of locals and Iranian tourists. 

Journal entry Monday 7th
The day looked like being stormy and windy. We were apprehensive of our chances of getting back to the mainland and our flight to Shiraz and worse, Citt's visa had one day to expiry.  We were to extend in Shiraz.  Time to move on but first we must visit the boat yards down the far end of the island at a village called Luft and catch a ferry to Bander e Abbas. We hired a taxi for the 3 hours trip to Luft and back to the boat harbour.

Scrapping the hulls before applying anti foul.

Typical Dhows

 Luft Village is situated on the far northern tip of the island. It has large tides ideal for servicing the hulls boats.

Luft water catchment area showing cistern full of water at the time of our visit.

 

Air conditioning tower Persian style

The local lady with mask

1. The Persians perfected airconditioning.  They build towers on their houses loaded with water. These suck the hot air out and recirculates with cool air. I have added an image of these ingenious devices for you. No electrical power needed.
2. The water collection system is a series of channels draining into deep wells and these in turn are connected to a main cistern. The whole system is gravitational.
3. Eucalypt trees are everywhere providing shade and excellent charcoal. So our Ozzie export is a true achiever. 
4. The story of the ladies in masks is an interesting one. The mask was introduced by the Portuguese in the 1500s as fashion accessory. It stuck and today the women wear all sorts of different Gucci designs.  The shador is a recent innovation bought on by the fundamentalist regimes in the middle east.

The main business of this village is boats, boat builidng and repair. The yards were all closed due to the holiday. 

Our driver waited for us as we walked and explored. The locals were not friendly in this place - very suspicious. It was to be understood given the bloody history of this region.

The trip back to the wharf was a quick one as I suspect our driver was training for the Dacca rally or maybe the F1. Anyway he did himself no favors as we had negotiated a rate on time. 

The ferry terminal was in a frenzy as only half the boats were making the trip. This is where I saw Citt do her thing. She single handed got us on a boat within 15 minutes via the water police. It was a performance to cheer. 

When we settled down after me jumping on the boat over the void as the boat was on its way  due to the fact Citt would not leave without me. Giving the crew her best outburst. That's my girl!

Back at Port.  Bander E Abbas 6 hours to the flight. Everything in this town was shut tight. So we headed for a 5 star hotel. Taxi to the airport and the biggest security check of my life before being admitted to the terminal. We flew at 2300 hours.

Next journal entry 

Shiraz - Persepolis

Yazd -Central Desert
Journey-end Tehran