Pam and Mal Update and News

In search of Persia" >thumbing it in the mountains of Kurdistan Iran.

2012-01-28T23:30:00.000-08:00

I wrote this in Iran and emailed. This is a shortened version.
Iran Government blocks all interactive internet applications Flickr, Facebook, Blogger, Twitter

The road across the west of Kurdistan

Hoofing it. Waiting for a lift.

26/10/11 Journal entry
We overnighted at a place called Howraman. There was no transport from here to take us to Pavou. So we thumbed it down the dirt road. It was the best day for us. We were picked up several times in small hops until Nivin.

A beautiful family. We had lunch with them. In time their world will be shattered as the dam will flood their home.

We had had tea (cay) with two families. Lunch or brekkie (we could not agree) with a family of 4 before 12pm. No one would take a penny for fuel or food.

A Kurd village where the roof is the floor of your neighbour.
Then our luck ran out outside of Nivin or so we thought. We walked for 12 kilometres on the stony mountain road. (Citt is great company in these sort of situations makes it all seem like a huge adventure).

Our drivers and friends to enroute to Parvou.

There was not a car in sight nor a soul and the weather looked like closing in. The packs got heavier and the shoulders began to ache. We rounded a corner expecting to see the next village but it was straight

up..... no village.

Then we heard it. Unmistakable, a vehicle. Round the corner puffed an old wreck of a Peugeot 1500. Two characters were in it with half the farm in the boot and the rest on the back seat. Not to worry as always out went half the farm and in we went. The car stalled and it would not start. The car runs on gas and I think it has something to do with the vaporization in the carburetor or at least that is what we hoped.

Citt waiting for a lift

Try it 100 miles from anywhere and do not know the language do not really know where the next town is nor what the weather is doing. But these guys are Kurds and nothing stops a Kurd and they know Harry Kewell. Right! (:

Poppie and grand son

The road to Pavou

These engineers gave us a lift part of the way and practiced english.

Lunch stop 2.00pm, in a building at the bottom of a ravine. The biggest bloody rocks I had ever seen hung over this building and Van had just had an earthquake couple of hundred miles away!

Not happy Jan. I got indigestion, Citt got the giggles. Eventually after cleaning up their plates We were off.
No earthquake.Yes!
We continued to the biggest cave with spring water gushing out. Fabulous.

They were going all the way to Pavou. The journey was a constant stall and start process. The poor old Peugeot had trouble on the 15% grades (had to get a good run at it) and the mountains kept going up and up.

Some miles out of Pavou we rounded a corner and we were stunned......
There in front of us was a huge construction site. This whole beautiful valley was to be flooded. The construction site was a hydro scheme.

The dam work site. Does not make a rats where you live, the corporate will get you!

All of the people in this traditional Kurdish valley with whom we had shared cay and laughed and joked with would be homeless. We were dismayed.

Crest fallen we puffed into Pavou. There the guys put us on a bus for Hermasham a 3 hour ride. We bid them goodbye. We all had had such a good time together riding in that old Peugeot in the mountains. The old Peugeot coughed and spluttered off up the road. Citt and I looked at each other and burst out laughing.

The day was not over. There was more to come.

It was dark, raining buckets and cold. We were contemplating how to get to a hotel while sitting in the bus as we approached Kermasham, a medium sized city with not a lot to offer.

We were deep in conversation when a gentle voice said "Hello where are you from"?.
Where are you going?
Then he asked "where are you staying tonight"?
Then he said, "I have a hotel in the Teachers quarters. Please come and I will get you a bed. And so it was we were in the University quarters for the night. Sheets, hot water and he even ordered pizza for us.
Gosh how to repay hospitality like that it makes us humble.

27/10/11 Journal entry
Kermasham to Esfahan
10 Hours by bus.

Our coach awaits us for the journey to Esfahan.

The carvings at Kermanshan.
Celebrating the triumph over the Romans 200 AD

So on and up the road to Esfahan, Capitol of the Persian Empire from 1200 AD till 1600 AD.

We hope you are enjoying our journey

On the bus journey we have an experience with the teachers and the polis board the bus.

In search of Persia: Into the mountains of Kurdistan.

2012-01-28T23:27:00.000-08:00

Our journey from Tabriz to Sanandoj then onto Merrivan form there to Powe to Kermanshan

25/11/11 Journal Entry

Sanadoj to Merrivan then Hawraman on the Iraq border.

(Do not worry there is a huge mountain range between us and Iraq, one road). We are safe, 2 military checkpoints and a police road block to go through.

As usual an early start and another magic brekkie of tea, biskit, honey and fetta. We got some good advice from a passer by and got a taxi out to the mini bus stands and onto a bus on the spot and we were away front seat and all.

Arrived Merrivan and a good Samaritan told us there was a new hotel at Howraman which is where we wanted to go.

But how to get there.

Easy hire a driver and car.

Our car and driver

Right on the spot.

Off we go.

Nosoud.

Then the hotel.

Hotel Howraman wowwie.
No problem we were the soul inhabitants of a 35 room brand new hotel.

No food

No heat

But hot water and a loo.

Yes, gold at last.

Carpets and all. Our hotel fabulous felt rugs.

Now who are these foreigners. A local watches us.

Time to explore as it is mid afternoon and we have had nothing to eat since brekkie.

We found there is no eating house in this village.

Enter this young samaritan. This guy and his mates drove us to the closest kebab shop about 30 minutes down the road and waited for us to finish then drove us back.

Our good samaritan, or angels as we called them.
30 minutes to the Kebab shop and back.

Citt with the girls at school

This old fellow. Which one is oldest?

Tomorrow we leave this place.

Howraman and the valley

Is this the last bastion of true Kurdistan?

Houses on steep hill. The roof is your neighbour's floor

National costumes

Kurdish tongue

Hospitality like no other

No power

No running water

But heaps of heart and passion.

They have told us there is no transport and the road hardly exists from here to Pavou.

So we are just gunna wing it again.

Citt reckons it will be OK.

What do you think?

Searching for Persia: Aras Valley and onto Kurdistan.

2012-01-23T17:12:00.000-08:00

Journal Entry 23 October 2011
We decided to travel to the Aras Valley along the Armenian and Azerbaijan borders. For us the area is important as it was a major route on the Silk Road.
The Aras valley leads from Armenia to Turkey. The roads have been heavily fortified since 1920 when the area was the first line of defense against the Russian juggernaut.

The Aras valley makes up the border north of Tabriz. Our journey will take us along the border looping back to Tabriz.

The valley has been occupied since prehistoric times. It has been occupied by all the usual suspects and the last lot were the British and the Russians. Once the Persians got rid of that lot, the Armenians and Azerbaijan decided to have a go. The border is still a disputed area between Iran, Armenia and Azerbaijan. Take a good look at the map and you will see that Armenia holds a sliver of land fronting onto Iran. Azerbaijan is split and Azerbaijan is not happy.

We did not need a military pass but cameras are banned in some sensitive areas.

The valley is dotted with historic sites. Armenian churches, Zoastrian temples, Caravansaries, forts, barriers and walls, even a Hammam (bath house). The valley ends at the the Caspian Sea where the river empties.
Short of the Caspian is a mountain range we will cross to get you some magic views. There are ski resorts in the area and 4 star hotels are planned but that is a long way off.

Tomorrow we plan to make an early start to get to Sanandoj in Kurdistan. Then travel along the Iraq border joining the main highway at Hamadan for our run into Esfahan. Probably 4 days time.

23/10/11 Journal entry
Our day started before dawn with our driver waiting at the door.
The Iranians (Persians)
They never travel anywhere without a flask of boiling hot tea and some sweets. Tea is taken black, usually with 3 lumps of sugar. Then you put a lump in your mouth after every swig. Then there are sweet cakes and biscuits. It is a dentist's dream. Not to mention the hypos. Sure have a sweet tooth.

Off we go!
Out onto grid locked roads before dawn. There is no room for soft stomachs or poor nerves here mate. There are 2 speeds, stopped and flat out. The pedestrians cross roads, even motorways, with any fear. The drivers have no lanes and no rules.
You would love it. It is awesome.
Just wear a seat belt. What seat belt?
Red light. What red light?
To be fair, they are really good drivers as they do not waste a square metre of road. They do not miss a weakness from another vehicle. Their horn is the best form of warning.
Yep, mine is louder than yours! Bugger off!
Most cars have bangs all over them looking like prize fighters on a bad day.

Citt at the Khaje Nasar Inn Caravanserai with our taxi car.

The cars comprise old models, locally manufactured Peugeot and Hyundai, basic 4 cylinder jobs. There are a lot of BMW 4 X 4 black and flashy. We guessed these were the government or the rich manufacturers.
Fuel
As I can best figure it out, each car is allowed 60 litres of fuel at .45c/litre per month. After that the fuel can be purchased in 20 litre lots at near $2.00/litre. Commercial vehicles are free of all tax and can fill up at designated fuel stops. Most cars are running on LPG but the same rules apply. It all seems good but our trip was to take all day and we were to stop at least 3 times. Each fuel stop has a queue of about 30 cars. With 4 pumps manned by jocks. No more need be said.

The army watch towers all along the roads.

After stopping to collect some Venezuelan bananas and biscuits for our day we were off into the wilds of the Aras River Valley.

Khaje Nasar Inn Caravanserai

First stop is the Caravanserai being refurbished, Then onto the most beautiful Christian church, The Church of Saint Stephan.

Saint Stephan Armenian Christian Church Iran/Azerbaijan border

Saint Stephan the monk was so successful back in the 1300 spreading his Christian word that the Mullahs took to him and along with 3000 of his followers stoned the lot to death.

2nd century BC Zoastrian Temple. Fire worship.

The old church is situated in a valley filled with walnut trees. The site also houses a very well preserved Zoastrian temple.

Saint Stephan Church Iran
It is one of the most spiritual and beautiful places I have ever been in my life.

The front entrance looking North West

The rest of the day we spent traveling along this wonderful place with history on every corner, ancient and modern.

The road along the Aras valley

The Hammam was the most humbling experience. Ceramic art work at its best. Arches, domes and pillars all being refurbished. Do not know who will visit. It is totally deserted. Maybe, maybe one day.

We did not get the shots of the mountains. We became engulfed in fog.

Travelling into the mountains Aras Valley

We arrived back in Tabriz late. But we got our taxi man to drop us at the Jameil Mosque or the Blue Mosque as it is called because of the ceramic tiles. it is in the state of repair after the last earthquake.

Landscape of the Arras valley

24/11/11 Journal entry.
Bus from Tabriz to Sanadoj Kurdistan.
Again and early start, too early for our hotel to supply brekkie. The buses were not booking when we got to the bus station.

A bus take a close look at the back.

Getting going at the bus station.

We had tea in the shop. Then found the best local food in the way of hot bread biskit honey and fetta. Man that is the best honey in the world.

MMMM the best breakfast in the East. Fresh bread biskit, honey and fetta.

We spent all day on the bus and had a good time with the other people on the bus,
Our stay in Iran had only been 3 days but we have found only kindness, hospitality and interest from all the people. (except those #$(&^ heads on the bus from the border) but hey, shit happens.

Our driver, jockey and spare man. Note the nose job.

Arrived in Sandoj in the dark. It was packed with people and busy as all. There is no English only Farsi here and we got a little lost. Eventually ended up in a hotel cost $12 for two. And was probably the worst hotel I have ever stayed in other than a hotel in Gua Masang in Malaysia.
Still what do you expect for $6?
The silver lining is we are in Kurd country and they are all in their native clothes with poo catcher trousers, sashes and scarves. We loved the feel.
Went out to a restaurant for dinner. It was the most unusual place and of course as always we got involved with a wedding party. Yep, everyone has some relatives in Sydney even folks from Sanandoj in Kurdistan Iran.

Restaurant in Kurdish country Sanandoj

We had a great time. Gotta tell you this one.
Citt went to the toilet and came back with a strange look on her face.
She exclaimed the toilets are multi sexual.

25/11/11
Tomorrow we travel to the mountains along the Iraq border. It will maybe take us a couple of days. We do not know what to expect as we are told there is no transport or hotels.
The reason we are going?
Beause it is the heart of Kurdistan and we can.

We will just wing it.
It always works.

Inside Iran: Tabriz, Carpets and Kandovan stone houses.

2011-12-30T21:56:00.000-08:00

Journal entry 22/10/2011
Today finds us in Tabriz Northern Iran after riding a bus from the border. (There were some really difficult blokes on the bus being childish and it made our journey very unpleasant).

Short distance Meredes Benz buses.

However we arrived at the Central Bus Station and after a short easy taxi ride we checked into our Hotel Morvarid in Central Tabriz.

Hotel Moravid Tabriz

Tabriz is situated in the North Western border area of Iran. It has a long history of Kings and Conquerors dating from the 3rd century BC. However it also has a long history of earthquakes needless to say most of the ancient wonders are gone to rubble. The most striking thing about Tabriz is its people. Situated in East Azerbijan province the people are mainly Azerbijan people with some Armenian and Turks in the mix. We found the people to be friendly and helpful. The city is modern, filled with mens' wear shops and not a sign of women's fashion. No shoes, no hairdressers, no handbags. Just amazing. Only mens wear shoes and stuff. Sorry ladies we did look real hard as Citt wanted a haircut after Norway and Germany. But hey, she has on a scarf. So no problem she said........

On the way to the markets. Chador clad ladies.

Tabriz has a mixed history being founded in antiquity. It can claim to be the hub of the old Silk Road in Persia. Roads lead to Baghdad, Aleppo, Damascus, Babylon, Byblos, Beirut, Cairo, south to Esfahan and the Gulf ports to Arabia. To the North West lie the Med Ports of Antalya and Antachya.
Today Tabriz is an industrial city. The road still leads to Turkey and the markets of Europe. Embargos are in place. (I counted at least 350 articulated lorries stacked up on both sides of the border). But they all get through somehow.
The industry around Tabriz consists of Automotive, Cement Plants and Industrial Factories turning out all sorts of things. The city is pleasant with wide one-way streets. The traffic is very very fast when it is not in a log jam.
The buildings are three story limit. I guess because of the earth shaking.

In the centre of Tabriz is the famous World Heritage listed Tabriz Bazaar. It is the largest covered bazaar in the world and it is the longest. Aleppo Bazaar in Syria is larger by size m2. (Pam, Kellie and I visited in 1974). These places make Westfield look pale, but it is interesting the layout in Westfield centers follow the same, central walkways and specialized areas. Two levels is some areas, housing smaller specialized tenants and showrooms.
But I am getting ahead of myself again as always.

We wanted to visit the carpet markets within the bazaar. Citt and I have an interest in carpets and we thought you might like to take a look with us? But first a bit about carpets before we go in.

A very different carpet (Image Citt Williams)

Carpets are unique. They are not just stuff! In the West we tend to lump them as Persian carpets but this is not correct as carpets come from all over the East. Turkey, The Stans, The Caucuses, China, India and Pakistan.
The Tabriz Bazaar was and still is the most important market for the sale and distribution of carpets. (Tehran we were told was bigger but did not specialize in quality rare carpets).

Where do they come from?
Each carpet has a story!
The story is in the pattern. It can be the story of the family, the village, the tribe. Some patterns stretch back centuries. (The families are very bitter as Chinese factories are copying the patterns and manufacturing carpet copies in large factories without permission.) The dealers can tell you where the carpet came from and just about who made it. The number of knots, the lay of the carpet, the fibre all make for the true value of a carpet. A carpet can be made out of wool, camel hair, cotton, silk or a mixture. The dyes used in the carpets are at best natural vegetable and plant dyes. Some rugs can take up to 5 years to complete.
The family manufacturing a carpet is by no means guaranteed a good price for the carpets as in this area borders tend to change without warning. There are stories of false walls in houses to hide the rugs in time of trouble. A rug maker is highly skilled and take on apprentices in the art. The rug makers specialize in the making of, or repair and remake of, damaged rugs. The value of a carpet is complicated taking into account the number of knots, the color, the size, the materials used and the quality of the workmanship, last but not least the rarity of the pattern.

Mozaffarieh alley (fine carpets) Tabriz Bazaar

We found the rug sellers to be interesting and informative. Yes they wanted to sell us but after explaining we had a long way to go and we did not have a lot of money they turned into information gurus. Like all technical sales people they are experts in their field and we spent hours enjoying talking with them and drinking endless Chai.

Chaikana having lunch. Note the Hooka pipes

We took some images for you. Please take a trip with us through the Bazaar at Tabriz.
Just click the picture and the near the top of the picture where it says information clik the full screen and you will have information on the image.

Enjoy.

After the carpets we decided we had better get going and explore some of the outlying region instead of drooling over these gorgeous works of art.

So we hired a taxi and off we went to Kandovan a village of rock houses, no tourists and beautiful weather.

The stone houses of Kandovan 1300 AD Iran.

Tomorrow is a big day we plan to go to Eras River Valley. The Valley runs along the Armenian and Azerbijan border. Historically it is an important border area and parts of the Valley are still contested but it it open for us to visit without military passes. They say the vistas are fabulous.

This is my journal date 22/10/11

Merry Christmas to you and the best for the New Year wherever you are,

2011-12-23T12:14:00.000-08:00

It is Christmas in Australia.

It is the time we as a Christian Nation celebrate the birth of Jesus of Nazareth (7-1BC BCE - 30-36 AD/CE)

It is our time of family reunions, a time of celebrations with our friends and colleagues

Our time to remember, the year gone by and celebrate the blessings received

It is Christmas and wherever you are.

We wish you and your loved ones the very best for the season

A blessed and bountiful New Year for 2012

From our home to yours.

From our home: Sunrise over the beautiful Gold Coast Queensland Australia

From our home: Sunset on the Beautiful Gold Coast Queensland Australia

Merry Christmas

From our family to yours

In search of Persia" >Border crossing Iran

2011-12-17T19:17:00.000-08:00

Journal entry 21 October 2011

Today was the day we had dreamed of. We were going to Iran to search for the sites of ancient Persia and to savor modern Persian lifestyle.

Citt my traveling companion on this journey (our youngest daughter)
and I traveling on the bus. Maku to Tabriz Iran,

(Persia is derived from the Greek word Persis. The area was called Persia by the Greeks in 330BC)

I hope you can understand our trepidation on this day.
The media paints Iran as a terrorist state ("part of the axis of evil")* We are given to believe that all Iranians are terrorists and we could be shot, held hostage, or even put in jail.

The always question - why are you going there. It was easier to say, "going to Turkey", or in some cases evade the question. The reasons are easy and in hindsight we can look back and say that was a good idea. There is no reason not to visit a country as to me people are basically decent. They love their kids and still have to put the rubbish out on Friday.

I said to Citt 'No photos in no mans land' but she took this one anyway. Turkish-Iran border.

Rules exist for journeys "to places less trodden". It is wise to stay away from areas of civil unrest, armed conflicts, shady corners and dark alleys. And of course Mum's advice "not to speak to strangers" is out the window. Apart from that, let it all hang out.

Persia (Iran)
The historical significance of Persia is huge.
The earliest man lived here 10,000 BC and from there it all happened. The Empire of the Persian was founded in 728BC by Cyrus 559BC-529BC) The most impressive thing about the Persians is the long history of civil rights and freedom of speech. It is ironic the present regime is so repressive when throughout the Achaemenid Dynasty 559BC until Alexander the Great 330BC all men were treated equal in a bill of human rights.

I am Cyrus (559BC - 529BC) the Great who founded the Empire of the Persians.
Grudge me not therefore this little earth that covers my body.

The Persian Empire dominated Mesopotamia from 612-330 BC. The Achaemenid Persians of central Iran ruled an empire which comprised Iran, Mesopotamia, Syria, Egypt, and parts of Asia Minor and India. Their ceremonial capital was Persepolis in southern Iran founded by King Darius the Great.

Persepolis was burned by Alexander the Great in 331 B.C. Only the columns, stairways, and door jambs of this great palace survived the fire. We plan to visit this palace later in our journey.

Darius relief Persepolis Iran
(Image Citt Williams)

The empires.
The Medes
728BC - 330 BC
Aechaemenid Period (the golden age of Persia)
530BC - 330BC
Hellenistic Period (Alexander the Great)
330BC - 312BC
Seleucids
312BC - 238 BC
Parthians
170BC - AD226
Sassinads
AD226 - 650
The coming of Islam (Arab)
AD650-1219
Mongol invasion and occupation
AD1219-1500
The Safavids and a new enlightened Persia
AD1500-1722
Persia and European influence
1722-1914 "The great game". Britain, France and Russia.

Since the first world wars, Iran has become a political football due to the fact it is the top producer of oil and gas in the world. Azerbaijan (was a part of Iran) has been the top producer of quality oil for 125 years. Hitler tried to control this in the 2nd world war and the Russians resisted in the famous battle of Stalingrad depriving the Germans of much needed oil for the war machine. Known as the Eastern Front it is estimated 30 million souls perished in this conflict between 22 June 1941 and 9 May 1945.

http://www.historyofwar.org/Maps/maps_stalingrad1.html

Through the back door May 1941
The Germans then tried to put a pincer on the allies through the Greece peninsular and Crete to land in Lebanon but the British and the Anzac forces foiled that one in the battle of Crete 1942. The allies lost this one but in the meantime won the war. It is not well documented but this battle was the most critical in the course of the war as Hitler lost all of his elite corps to the Anzac forces on Crete. Most of the surviving allied force was taken POW (estimated 5,700) however The New Zealander Mauri corp at Heraklion Crete repelled the glider attack. The Mauris subsequently were the most feared by the German troops. A band of Australians and Kiwis escaped into the hills and became guerilla forces.

The battle of Crete

There is a stark reminder at Horas Phakion on the south Crete coast the final place the allies evacuated by sea (submarine and destroyers). There was a glass case in the main square dated 1942 with every male head from the village with a neat hole in the skull. This was a warning to the locals not to assist the allies. (Pam, Kellie-Ann and I lived on Crete for 3 months in 1974 traveling in a camper. There was more than random acts of kindness from the locals).

It is ironical that today Europe the US and its allies are still toying with Iran. Like the Germans before them oil is all important to their economy. (Please bear in mind the Iranians nationalized all of the assets of France England and the US in the 60s. It is little wonder the government and people of Iran are angry and they may have weapons of mass destruction. The Israelis have them and no-one is calling them evil?

It is a bit like the small kid in school who has all the lollies and the big kids have none. But the little kid has a Taser and has found out how to use it.

There is a saying in this part of the world.
Never tell an Iranian what to do! You could get hurt.

Forgive me I am getting away from the Iran story/blog but it all has a bearing on history and my thoughts when entering Iran.

Useful reading in a simple form.
http://www.crystalinks.com/persia.html

The ancient silk road led to Tehran, Tabriz and Shiraz on its winding way to Baghdad, the Mediterranean ports of Antakya and Anatolia, then onto Egypt and Africa. Trading wares from China in the East to Egypt and Europe in the West from early BC to modern 1900s.
Today highways are being built by China across the grasslands of Central Asia to take over where the ancient traders left off. Replacing camels with huge Scania and Chinese road trains.

Crossing the border 21/10/11
The day dawned clear and bright. We were so happy as that meant we could get a good look at Mt Ararat and maybe get an image for you.

Mount Ararat Turkey

The dining room on the fifth floor roof of the hotel had a surprise for us. We met some Dutch cycle tourists en-route around the world in Erzurum Turkey and here they were munching on bread, cheese and honey. Inspirational people. One of the guys has a prosthetic leg and the others are 50+. Sold the lot to take an adventure. Why not?
They were stuck waiting for the customs to clear some spare parts for their bikes. Shit happens.

The dining room on the fifth floor. One Dutch cycle tourist.

Saying our goodbyes we hoisted our packs and headed off to find our mini bus for the 20 minute ride to the Iran border. Our hope was to meet these intrepid travelers again in about 18 months. They are scheduled to be in our part of the world the beautiful Gold Coast Australia.

Border crossings are never my favorite pastime. (I remember in the 70s crossing with Pam and Kellie-Ann into Syria. It cost us Deutchmarks and a bottle of alcohol to get through) and it was expected this may happen here.
But no such thing.

Mini Bus to the border

We arrived at the border and changed some Turkish money to Iranian Rial. We of course got fleeced. Turkish money is useless in Iran.
It is very confusing.
Iranian currency $1 = R11,050
The currency is all in notes and comes in R500-R500,000

10,000 rial (A$1.10) Front

20,000 rial (A$2.20) Back

We changed near $200.00 and the stack did not fit into my top pocket or my bag. The most annoying thing is the R10,000 ($1) note is the same color as the R100,000 ($10) caused some problems for me later on.
The real story of the crossing starts after the very civil border guards ushered us into Iran.
Citt had put her scarf and head band on (her Iran outfit as she called it), as she must. She was so nervous as we walked out of the customs hall.

Then the pond life got hold of us.....

We still had a 100 Turkish Lire which we changed with one of the moneychangers. At a discount as always but that is business for these guys.
Then the fun started our bus to Tabriz was in a town called Maku some 85 kilometers away and time was not on our side as we understood the last bus left at 13.00 and it was near 12.00. The mob got hold of me and tried to wrench my bag from me demanding R50,000 ($5) for the taxi ride.
(Citt left me to it and watched at a respectable distance with a bemused look on her face.
She said "that it was not a woman's place in Iran to argue with a man". We were to find out later that is not the case at all, but that is another story).
I was getting nowhere as I realized that the fare was over the top by double and there was no way I was going to pay that sum of money. Then all of a sudden a motor bike wheel pushed into the crowd and a big muscly guy with a strong english accent addressed me. (Citt calls him Robo-Cop)
Q> Where was I from?
Who was I traveling with?
Where did I want to go?
What is my business in Iran?
He took it all in and then told me simple rules for traveling in Iran. He then told me how to deal with the mob. THEN he took to the mob in Farsi. They all stood there with mouths open. I am sure in hindsight he was berating them for treating a stranger and a guest in their country so badly. The mob were silent. He then revved up his very large mountain motorcycle and was gone Pooof.
Me> I walked out of the crowd and walked to Citt. She could not stop laughing. Loves a drama........ (:

Yellow cab Iran style

I did as he said and walked to a yellow cab and guess what R20,000 to Maku. In Maku I did it again and there was another Robbo Cop as the bus was full but we got on thanks to these strangers.

On the bus to Tabriz Iran

The rest of our journey these people with random acts of kindness were to be called.....

Angels.

* George W Bush President of the United States of America In his State of the Union Speech 29 February 2002;
President Bush labelled Iran, Iraq and North Korea "The Axis of Evil". describing these governments of helping terrorism and seeking weapons of mass destruction.
History has shown Iraq had no weapons of mass destruction but a lot of oil. it took 100,000 local lives to prove him wrong plus 4,483 US dead and 33,00 wounded. This official tally is reputed to be incorrect.

Van, Tombs, Snow, and a fateful decision.

2011-12-05T18:19:00.000-08:00

17^th October

Urfa-Dayakbakir -Dayakbakir-Tatvan

Local buses 10 hours

Map of Turkey our journey so far.

This leg of the journey takes us from the desert to the mountains-cape of southeastern Turkey.

We had planned to go straight to Lake Van but we heard there were some spectacular historic grave sites on the Northern side of Lake Van. So after a fairly uneventful Journey on the bus we stopped in the town on Tatvan on the lakes of Lake Van.

Tatvan at dawn with storm clouds threatening

The hotel was 70s style with eco friendly lights, so friendly we needed a torch to read anything.

On the side we were going to go for an evening stroll to look at the town, 5 minutes into the walk we both felt that maybe it was not a good idea. The streets were filled with testerone fueled young guys. We retreated to our hotel. It is the first time we felt any danger We were warned by the Polis earlier not to walk at night and not to go down alleys.

Good advice.

It rained all night with the promise of snow. We felt the cold after the deserts.

After a spartan brekkie in our 70s style hotel that looked like an hospital. We grabbed the mini bus for a 30 minute ride to Ahlat Museum miles from any where but right on the Historic tombs dating from 300AD Byzantine, Greek, Seljuk, Chinese Greek Armenian and Turkic tombs.

Seljuk Tombstones

The Museum adjacent was smal but very well done.

Armenian grave

The weather was deteriorating as we went into he grave area. So much so we abandoned the project. We changed into cold weather gear in the toilet of the Museum and just as well. The ensuing hours were to be uncomfortable as we were miles out and did not have a clue where to catch the bus to Van we knew the last left at 1330 in a town somewhere down the road. It was starting to sleet we had no shelter as we waited for the bus. Eventually a kind guy stopped and took us to the local mini bus stop but this was not a friendly spot.

Tea shop and restaurant.

We had some tea in a small shop. Out of the snow a bus appeared. We had no idea where is was going but we got on just to get out of that small unfriendly town and back on the road.

Random acts of kindness happen! The people on the bus were helpful pointing us in the right direction. Eventually we arrived in Van after a long roundabout journey none the worse for our ordeal but in Van it was snowing and cold. The hotel we favored was full.

Man not our day. That was not to be the case in hindsight.

Van had some interesting Armenian churches on an island in the lake. There was also some interesting villages we wanted to visit. It is an old Silk Road town on the route to the Med ports.

It was snowing so hard and so cold that we decided to get going next morning for Iran border crossing next day.

It was a good decision the date was 19th October.

Van: Sunday 23 October 13.41 pm an earthquake struck 7.1 on the richter scale at a shallow depth of 20,000 metres. The centre of the quake was 10 kilometres South of Van but the shock was shallow causing maximum destruction to buildings. The final tally 604 dead 4,152 injured 11,230 buildings damaged 6017 being uninhabitable. The after shock was 5.6 and caused further damage to the beautiful city of Van.

When we left on the bus we had no idea this city would be part destroyed.

Cit on our way to the bus station Van

Van to Dogubyzit Bus Turkey

It was snowing hard and it was cold. If it had not been snowing we would have gone to the lake and then to an island where an old Armenian church stood. We felt as we left Van on the bus that day that we had not done the City justice,

It was to turn out that the snow may have saved our lives.

Off to Dogubaysit on the Turksih Iran border. Our arrival was early in the afternoon this was a frontier town in the real context. But the food was good and in the process we met a Korean Lady travelling alone who joined us to visit the most amazing Ishak Pasha.

Ishak Pasha Palace Turkey

One leg Citt in the main hall. Ishak Pasha Palace

An amazing Palace built high on a ridge looking at Mt Arrat and the plains below. Incredible in the process of being restored.

Dogubizit main street mall

Tomorrow we cross the border Iran and travel to Tabriz.

A visit - Date 9000BC Gobelki Tepe Turkey

2011-12-01T21:08:00.000-08:00

Dear Fellow Travelers
You may have received this as an email some time ago.

We visited the site of Gobelki Tepe in Turkey on the 17th of October

Citt wrote the article and I wanted to share it with you.

On the outskirts of Urfa town Southern Turkey is the oldest unearthed temple in the world!! Gobelki Tepe dating back to about 11,000 years ago, When people were making the transition from hunter gatherers to farmers.

The Excavation site outside of Urfa Turkey

Perhaps the birth of religion...
Perhaps because of the abundant wildlife here during the receding glaciers, people didn't travel to hunt as far and stayed in the same caves, so they had time to gain an awareness of time,
seasons, stars...whilst beginning to control wild sheep and collect wild grass grains.

Malcolm at the site.

The site is radically changing the way we understand humans in that period of history, the temples construction that blows you away...

These were people who knew no wheel or pottery. It pre-dates Egypt (anything stone, large and permanent by thousands of years). The site is not well understood but is a series of huge standing stones in concentric circles sitting in the saddle of a desert mountain. On the stones are carvings of foxes, bulls, cranes, lions, snakes, geometric patterns and some fertility human figures.

The huge site is thought to be for the worship and reverence of sacred natural things. The whole place had a deeply instinctual resonance moving me for a long time to come.

A ring not excavated buried for thousands of years.

No human bones but many flint stones were found, Strangely it was completely covered over with soil in about 8500BC, preserving everything.
But why did they say, "Let's backhoe the temple"it's anyone's guess.

When we arrived, the place was alive as an archeological dig, and it overpowered both of us, Seeing the stones emerging from the hill side.

The standing stones

New knowledge right then and there!!

We even got to briefly meet the German Archeologist, typical looking... roly poly with intense, knowledgeable but sparkly eyes.

Yes, the whole of this region buzzes.

Ms. Citt Williams

Regards

Malcolm

Evil Places (Southern Turkey)

2011-11-29T00:57:00.000-08:00

Sauyb (Jethro)

Our visit covered the ancient city of Sauyb. 9000BC commonly dubbed Jethro after the prophet who lived here
It is a subterranean city with a few massive lintels and doorways remaining on the surface. It was an evil centre for sun and moon worship The caves are carved with effigies and scripts apparently undecipherable. The caves were used for sacrifices and tributes to Pagan gods. It was an evil place. Citt and I left as soon as we could. It was chilling.

Sogmatar

About 18km north of Suayb, the isolated village of Sogmatar is a very atmospheric, eerie place, surrounded by a barren landscape. The remains of a Roman fort. On a ledge there is an an open-air temple, With effigy of the Sun and Moon Gods on the surrounding mountains there are the remains of 7 temples, Little is know of the goings on or the actual rituals as the script is not deciphered it is known that the area was the centre of worship to the sun and moon gods. Sogmatar was a centre for cult worship, from about 300BC to 200 AD. The open-air altar was the central, temple. Close by, in a cave near the centre of the village there are 12 carved statues as well as Assyrian inscriptions. The cave is cold and unwelcoming.

The Caravanserie Han el Ba'rur

Citt and I are Silk Road buffs and have followed the road through China across Central Asia and now Turkey, Cavanserais are trading posts and rest places for the caravans. Some caravans with guards, slaves and handlers consisted of 200 to 300 people along with camels. This is an ancient Seljuk 1300 AD complex designed to shelter and refuel the silk road caravans on the direct route to Baghdad (a ancient truck stop). It is easy to feel how much security it would have offered behind its heavily fortified walls.

The caretaker of sorts had us come in for tea (cay') as is the custom for travellers. We had tea with yoghurt bread and local jam. The guy had 8 kids of varying ages from 3 to 15. We were the centre of attraction.
I had a good supply of twisty balloons creating some good laughs' He was so proud of his new arrivals of goats and sheep.
We spent a long time with this genuine family who pick cotton for $8.00 per day in the hot sun.

We hoped our gift to this family would assist to make their life a little easier, The happy kids were the highlight of the day.

We returned to Urfa for the last night. Our small celebration was a simple meal in a restaurant overlooking the citadel and Birth place of Abraham, secure in the knowledge we were in the holiest of holy places.
It was a magic end to our visit to Urfa.

Sanlurfa Citadel and Mosque

Tomorrow we catch the early bus to Van,

A day trip to Harran Southern Turkey Syria border,

2011-11-17T02:47:00.000-08:00

Hello I am back in the land of internet a month in Iran with a heavily filtered internet,
The following post may interest you, I sort of put it down as a pilgrimage to biblical sites, I am not versed in the old testament nor the Bilbe or the Koran but this is the land of the myth makers as a friend dubs it.
Read on 17 October
We left our hotel with a car and driver to visit the sites around the southern town of Harran,

Harran Turkey Abraham's journey

Harran is arguably one of the oldest continuously inhabited spots on earth. The Book of Genesis mentions Harran and its most famous resident, Abraham, who stayed here for a few years way back in 1900 BC.

The Castle at Harran

it was active as a pagan site from about 800 BC until AD 830, although Harran’s temple to the moon god was destroyed by the Byzantine emperor Theodosius in AD 382. Battles between Arabs and Byzantines occupied the townsfolk until the Crusaders came. The fortress, which some say was built on the ruins of the moon god’s temple, was restored when the Crusaders approached. The Crusaders won. But the home fires drew them back to Europe after sorting out the non believers,

The town was completely destroyed by the Mongols in the 12^th century all that is left is a pile of stones and a university gate. The fort was rebuilt but is now a wreck

Citt @ Harran University destroyed by Mongols in 12th century the whole city was destroyed,

Harran is famous for beehive (cone) houses which date back to the 3^rd Century. The design is unique although I am given to believe that similar houses exist iin Syria The Chimney top gives a flow of air through the roof keeping it cool in summer. The houses are made of clay and straw, We were fortunate to visit one of these complexes set up as a home.

Harran Beehive houses

The castle is in fair shape originally built over three levels. It is in a state of ruin Citt believes it would convert beautifully to a 5 star hotel. It has the best views over the surrounding deserts We were told the bricks were an easy supply of building materials for the locals. Explaining the missing ramparts at the castle.

The desert now sprouts cotton thank to the waters of the Eurphrates. The area is being developed under the Gap Project an ambitious project to turn huge expanses of desert into arable land, It has the potential to start a war with the flow of water virtually stopped to neighbouring Iraq and Syria. It is OK while the neighbouring countries are in turmoil!

Kurdish Cotton pickers

Citt and I returned that evening to Urfa completely exhausted with the amount of history in one place, I will update you on Sogmater, Sayub and the temples of the Pagans' Sun and Moon worship These sites we visited the same day and came away with some deep feeling of uneasiness.

At present I am struggling with an internet site at KL LCCT airport Malaysia which is not co-operating with me.......

I am going home.

Urfa, Nemrut Daghi, Harran, and Abrahams Birthplace

2011-10-20T11:58:00.000-07:00

Hello now where we on the last post?
It has been really hot in the desert and we have had some problems with blogger software. Also the Turkish Military blocked all alien telephones. Due to the skirmish over the border with the Kurds in Iraq. We are a long way from the trouble now.

On the Bank of the Euphrates River Urfa

OK we left Erzurum after collecting my Iran visa and caught a bus to Diabaykir. Our intention was to stay in that city but the connection to Urfa was waiting.
Arrived in Urfa just on dusk. Friday 14th.
Urfa is a magic place and it should be in the Blue Book for must see places. The foundations of Urfa are reputed to be 9000BC. It is the birthplace of the prophet Abraham. His cave is a sacred Moslem pilgrimage site,

The birthplace of the Prophet Abraham Urfa

The city is large some 870,000 people live here. Industry is farming and tourists. Not your usual tourists. But Middle East tourists from Bahrain, Dubai, Saudi and Iran. We found it to be vibrant alive and so hospitable, If you are a Christian then there are plenty of 12th century Crusader churches converted to Mosques but still unmistakable.

With the Kids in Urfa

Jesus is reputed to have sent a cloth here to cure a leper. The well where the leper washed is still intact covered with a rock!

Urfa from the old Fort 7000BC to Roman times
Citt and I have had random acts of kindness here, people just loved the fact we were visiting their city. A daughter and her Boppa. >me.

Our hotel was an old Armanien house renovated our host was a genial Kurd English teacher Aslan Asia. He was just great organized a trip to Nemrut Darghi And Harran taking in all the Roman Ruins. Historic sites and modern marvels of this region.

Aslan Konek Evi Hotel Urfa

We visited the Ataturk Dam part of the Gap Irrigation Project. That has turned desert into cotton fields and satisfied the Kurds with money and a future.
Nemrut Darghi National Park sits on top of a mountain 2150mtrs. It is a pyramid of rocks with statues of Lions Apollo, Hercules,.Zeus, King Antiocheus 62 BC built this monument to himself.

Nemrut Darghi 62 BC

To the West it is Greek to the East the statues are Persian.

Nemrut Darghi Persian Side

Good Politician this guy hedging his bets. He was caught between the Byzantines and the Persians.

Nemrut Darghi Greek Side

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Nemrut
These guys sure outshone our modern politicians for egalitarian acts.
http://www.google.com/search?q=nemrut+da%C4%9Fi+national+park&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=577&rlz=1W1SKPT_en&prmd=imvns&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=tl-gTtrPK4WLswbEz4jfAg&ved=0CFwQsAQ

It is a unesco site.

The Roman Bridge and perfect Seljuk period bridge burial mounds old cities all in the fertile crescent the land of the scriptures.

Roman Bridge

Citt

That is it for now we are crossing into Iran tomorrow so not too sure if I can update you. I will try my best. You are yet to visit the Biblical town of Harran and the old Sun god caves.

Thanks for coming along.

Erzurum, Ancient Ani, Historic Kars

2011-10-17T09:33:00.000-07:00

Hello 13/10/2011

Arrived in Erzurum under a cloak of darkness. Taxi to our hotel from the train from Istanbul. Fairly uneventful journey as I spent most of it with my head in the toilet bowel. A bad case of tummy BUG. But a few Norflaxin had me up and around in a couple of days only for Citt to be struck as well. So we spent 2 days in a quiet 5 star in Erzurum. In hindsight we were both jet lagged and down on our health so it was timely to get it out of the way. We did not eat so we enjoyed the heavily discounted Marriott.

Rennaisance Hotel Erzurum

Erzurum sits smack bang on the cross roads of trade routes. It has a violent history since the earliest man walked here in 3000BC. The sites are fewhowever there is an exceptional 12th century mosque and a Seljuk Hall.

Mongol Council House Central Erzurum

The main square has a Mongol council house with no windows and a single minaret added to make it look like a mosque. True the minaret is beautiful with tiles and mosaics.

Apart from the jewel markets (a 12th century palace converted to shops.) There is little else to hold ones attention. Unless you love cakes and sweets as this town has a caveat on them. Baklava, Eclairs, Rich sponges, and ice cream to die for. There are salons where women can go by themselves and of course the guys take their girls to sit and giggle while taking photos and texting to friends and facebooking the result.

Tea shop

It would be difficult for a single woman to travel here as the men are really in your face.

Visa to Iran is proving difficult as they do not seem to have the necessary documents I paid for from Tehran. So after the first call and we got nowhere decided to head out to Kars and the ancient city of Ani. Trying to not waste time waiting for Beurocrats to send a file via god knows how.

Kars is an old city standing in the road of Emporers, Kings, Despots and Kahns. It has a bloody history. Has been a part of Armenia. Russia, Persia, even the British had a go at it during the Caucus wars. I think the light brigade was around here somewhere will do some research and let you know.

Kars Memorial museum Russian house

Kars is dominated by a huge bluestone fort. The city is Russian built you would think you were in Irkusk or central Russia with stone houses on a neat grid with well laid out streets lined with trees.

From here we visited the ancient 'city of Ani

The olive Press Ani City

This city now derelict once housed 100,000 people It was a vital link and a major trading place on the Silk Road. It was founded in 950 or thereabouts by the Armenian Bogradite Kings who made it their capital. These guys were pretty big in those days. They did OK with some fist fights with the Byzantines and Seljuks but it all came unstuck when the Mongols came and got rid of the lot. The City was left deserted and earthquakes did the rest. It is lttle more than a heap of stones and ruined churches on the border of modern Armenia. By the way the border is closed due to a dispute so nothing has really changed.

Ruins

We spent three hours at the site and it was eerie to be in houses with the evidence of fires, in shops with the Pide oven in place. Walk a cobble street where Mums would have met and spent a time gossiping The gates where the tax agent lived and stand outside the church where a bride and groom Would have started life together. Dreams and realities all dead long gone.

We left the site and retruned to Erzurum to get the elusive Visa.

It is Thursday 13th and after a further 2 days, 3 visits and some Euros in the right place. I have my Visa to Iran. (:

Tomorrow 14th we leave for Mesopatamia. Diyabakur, Sanlurfa and Lake Van. The attraction? Hanny near Lurfa is reputed to be the oldest inhabited city on the planet. Plus Nemrut Darghi (Roman Heads) and Gobeki Tepe (10000BC older than stone henge). here Abraham was borne, this is the beggining of civilisation as we know it and it is all still standing ready for us to visit.

Are you still with us?

Let's go.

We are in search of Persia

The Jewel Market Erzerum

Istanbul heading East

2011-10-09T21:07:00.000-07:00

Istanbul
Visions of Dervishes swirling and Minarets in the sunset with the call to prayer loud and clear from all directions.
It is a bit like that but the Dervishes I missed....
Today I got going real early in the hope of beating the tourist hordes. No such luck in the night three huge ships snuck in, the mob were out. But I got into St Sophia's early and missed most of the hordes.

Saint Sophie

To me Saint Sophia is not AFC it is one of the great engineering achievements of this world. It was originally built in 330 AD by the Roman Emporer Constantine. Constantine commissioned a Physicist and a Mathematician to design the structure.

Looking toward the altar area

Constantine founded the eastern Roman Empire known as the Byzantine Empire and which was around till the Ottoman took over in 1413. It had some shaky times in its history notwithstanding Crusaders and Mongols. However Saint Sophias is the history of Istanbul and the Turkish people. It started life as a Catholic and morphed Orthodox and in 1400 was converted to a Mosque. In 1930 it was closed and became a museum. It really wasn't untl the 1990 that renovations restored it to some of its former glory.It has been hit by numerous earthqulkes and repaired over its life. But it still stands glorious.

As I entered the Building my mind went back to 1973 when Pam, Kellie and I squeezed through and hole in the fence to get in. It was closed to tourists. Inside the building was derelict. Street people used it as a home. It was refreshing to see loads of people enjoying this great monument to man's ingenuity.

Some of the crowd

The Blue Mosque rivals St Sophia but Sophie is my girl.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hagia_Sophia

Sultan Ahmet mosque (Blue Mosque)

I thought it time to get to see some of modern Istanbul. Metro to Cabatas then a fernicular up to Taksim Square in the business district.

Taksim Fernicular

As it was morning tea time. Coffee and Baklava yum.

I was in search of the modern art museum but I walked for miles and could not find it. However I did get to have a look at the old Venetian quarter with the Galata Tower.The streets are so narrow and most one way.

I have never seen a device like this. It,s purpose is to stop traffic from travelling up a one way street.

Rip a $600 Pirelli low profile run flat set of tyres apart real quick. Guess you could call it a fine on the spot.

Silent cops

Make damn sure you are going the right way

Oh honey the tyres are flat.

Oh sorry love I did not see the sign.

It was time to meet Citt coming from Franfurt.

We had a superb dinner in a famous Turkish Lokanta. It was a fitting end and a celebration of Citts achievment in ataining her Master of Science degree.

Love Istanbul where East really does meet West.
Tomorrow a train journey to Ezerum East Turkey 36 Hours on a sleeper.

Istanbul where East meets West

2011-10-05T21:09:00.000-07:00

Hi from Istanbrul
Arrived in good sted after a marathon flight through Bahrain.

Istanbul my favorite city steeped in history, Sitting serenely on the the Bosphorous. Commandaiing access to both Europe and Asia.
The city is a live and well. My first vist was in 1973 with Pam and little Kellie. We were travelling in a VW pop top. I came again in 1977 with Tony for a week. This time I am here for 2 days.
Citt joins me tonight from Franfurt.
I recollect camping outside the Blue Mosque and eating at the pudding shop so called as they made the best rice puddings and the hippy viet dodger set were there. It was the best place to get information as lonely planet was not around and the war in Israel was on.
Enough nostalgia i am now just an old traveller passing time like the rest of the tourists mouth open and being shown only what is in the guide book.

BUT yesterday I took off on the ferry mainy to get away from the tourists *3 Cruise boats in) Took it out to the Asian side where the views of the city are astounding. Drank tea with the locals and then went along to the fish market for lunch. Had grilled mackeral with a salad, sitting in amongst the fish. Does not get any better.

Fish monger note: modern scales

The touts are smooth they all have a family member in Australia. Suppose if I was Danish they would have family in Copenhagen.

My Istanbul Fish Sandwich

Did the Blue mosque.

The interior arches of the georgeous Blue Mosque

Visited the pudding shop. Sat and wondered where my life had gone.

THE pudding shop Istanbul.

38 years ago.

Do you ever do that?

In search of Persia

2011-10-03T16:13:00.000-07:00

Hello
You are invited to join us on the journey of a lifetime.
"In search of Persia" A trip through antiquity.

If you want to look at the future? Look at the past!

Our itinerary. Citt and I meet up in Istanbul Turkey.
Train to Ezerum Nourthern Anatolia ( Ancient Mesopatamia).
We then bus it to the ancient sights to search for the remains of the Assyrians, Hittities, Babylonians, Byzantines, Crusaders, Mongols, Seljuks and if we have enough energy left the Modern Turks. (This list is not complete)
Southern Turkey and Iran are part of the "fertile crescent" an area reputed to be the source of most modern agricultural species wheat, oats, cattle, sheep, goats owe their existence to the ancients,
Religion was born at Goeble Teke 10,000 BC and the list goes on.
Noah's Ark is reputed to be lodged on Mt Ararat. Yeah! Do you believe that?

Fertile Crescent

There is a link here that is like reading "Lord Of the rings". Please spend a little time, easy to read history and it helps to understand how relevant it all is today.
http://timewatch.greathistory.com/2010/02/16/15minmesopotamia/

We cross the border into Iran to "search for Persia". This amazing country that has been the scene of so much. Where civilization has been since 2,500 BC. The site of the seventh wonder of the world.

Perspolis

"The ancient city of Persepolis"

Described as the gate to the world.

Useful links to explore.

"http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Persepolis
http://www.persia.org/imagemap/perspolis.html

Are you coming?
Don't pack a bag, or worry about the visas. The airline tickets and the train tickets are not important. Just join us. It means a lot to the journeyers (Citt and I) to have you with us. As lucky says, "lots a photos Malcolm"

Welcome aboard and let's go I am in Kuala Lumpur writing this waiting for a flight to Istanbul.

Voices of Human Rights in Iran. The Persian version of "Imagine".

2011-06-17T21:54:00.000-07:00

Iran, Libya, Greece, Tunisia, Yemen, Afghanistan, Iraq, Georgia, China, Thailand.... and the list goes on.
Facebook wars the people have had enough.
Now nobody needs to be ill informed the spin does not work and the politicians have nowhere to hide.

Last post from Thailand

2011-05-27T21:34:00.000-07:00

22/5/11 Sunday
Booked out Phi Phi and caught the fast boat to Phuket a 1.5 hours ride.

Today we join The Robinsons for a family holiday at the Phuket Marriot Beach Club Villas.

This is the last post for this journey.
Thanks for travelling with us we hoped you enjoyed the images and comments.
Till we travel again or have news Bye Bye from Thailand.

Tale of the tragedy in Paradise

2011-05-27T20:40:00.000-07:00

21/5/2011 Phi Phi Popular resort. Breakfast. Speaking in broken english our innkeeper [Wun]tells her story.

Pam with the owner (Wun)of the Phi Phi Popular resort

The tragedy as told by Wun.

"The wave came when all the people had been partying. Boxing Day 2004. The first wave was small and the people all scrambled down to the shops, stalls and lower rooms to get money and goods. Then the big waves came 5 Meters plus and they were all caught". She said her friend said "no go back, bad thing this! Go to top floor" and she did. Her two friends did not listen and they go away in the water". There are still trees beairng the scars and stumps of buildings not rebuilt. It is true that developers moved in and bought the prime sites for new hotels. But what of the future? There is a large warning tower housing early warning sirens in the centre of the Isthmus. If the island is full then 3000 - 4000 people will be hard pressed to get to high ground in time. [Our bungalow is five metres to the high ground stairs].

Tree stumps broken off at the base.

Phi Phi Don the island is as we found it [for a couple of oldies].
A very good bungalow right on the water, a Thai restaurant next door, serving meals, Massages on the beach and the view away from the maddening crowd the stalls and the touts. Deck chair in the water. Paradise.

All too much I think we had best take a rest........

Krabi and Phi Phi Don Island Thailand

2011-05-24T09:35:00.000-07:00

From Krabi it is a short fast boat hop to our next stop being Phi Phi Island.
It is a popular diving spot and a haunt for the under 30s set. Mum if you have a daughter do not let her come here. OK be warned!

The deal the bus picks us up and takes us across the peninsular to the terminal. All good on the ferry loaded with back packers. The ferry is a single hull aircraft style seating 3 and 2. The crew is very particular as to how they load the boat. Packs get loaded in the bow and people distributed over the length of the boat. Some of the adrenline charged travellers do not like being told where to sit and it is a bit strained.

Phi Phi Island Beach

Phi Phi Don Island at about 12 noon, easy journey. Book in time for a swim. The tide is full. Phi Phi Don had been devastated by the 2004 Tsunami. The afternoon we set out after a sleep to explore and have a beer. We found the markers where the wave came - 5 metres high.

Reflections: travelling on a public bus

2011-05-24T08:33:00.000-07:00

On the buses

A man of indian extraction got on the bus at a small village. He was dressed in neat trousers and a pin striped shirt. What was exceptional this man wore clothes pressed to perfection his shoes were polished and he had an air of expectation. Where was he going?

Further along a young lady got on the bus dressed in a neat dress gathered at the waist with a beautiful buckle, the dress was knee length. She wore plain high heeled shoes and a matching immaculate handbag. Her hair was in a boy style. She looked so beautiful and poised. She only stayed on the bus for a few stops. Who was she meeting?

Then a man dressed in jeans,T shirt and windcheater [in this heat], He carried a plastic bag with his possesions in it. He had flip flops on his feet. But he carried with care a wet bundle of newspaper that looked like a huge bunch of flowers. Who were the flowers for?

In seats to the front of the bus sat a man and two women and a young girl. He gave up tickets for the four of them. He acted appropriately for me to surmise that he was a muslim man travelling with his two wives, I wondered why would a man subject himself to more than one wife? The full catastrophe.

Musings, questions and no answers.

We love to watch and talk to people travelling along. It is part of this journey called life.

All day on a Bus Penang MY > Krabi Thailand

2011-05-23T21:32:00.000-07:00

Thursday 19/5/11 Georgetown >Thailand border > Hat Yai > change to Govt bus > Krabi. 8hrs. Approx.

We have an early start 5.00am pickup all good, a tour of the city before dawn collecting passengers. Thai Border at 7.00am and it is busy. Takes an hour to cross. Make Hat Yai and connect with the Govt bus for Krabi on our way by 9.00am.

Buses can be fun! But the bus we had had a dumb jockey who loved Thai music LOUD. Unfortunately for us we were sitting in front of a huge sub woofer in this bus all the way 5 hours. Arriving at our hotel immediatley dug out the panadol.

City View Hotel Krabi

Pam admiring the view from our room

Our stay in Krabi is at the City Seaview Hotel on the bank of the Krabi River. Superb view over the river with long boats and fishing boats plying the river. The hotel is a classic colonial style with a beaut verandah and solid timer furniture.

Cameron Highlands to Penang Malaysia

2011-05-23T20:05:00.000-07:00

Wednesday 18/5/11
Cold start at 7.00am with mist on the ground, to the bus, down the mountains to Ipoh. Onto Georgetown. Wrong! Shoulda got out at Ipoh. No buses from Georgetown to Krabi only mini buses. Ooops my girl Pam is not amused.

Manky view looking to interior. A evening storm brewing.

Never mind, booked into a classic Hotel Hong Ping in Georgtown Penang. The airconditioner works, the view is over lots of manky roofs, the room is like a 5 x 4 shower cubicle with ceramic tiles to the ceiling. Ceramic tiles cover the floors. It is spotless. The family must have run this place for 50 years or more. The Innkeeper is charming she believes in value add. Add bus ticket, ferry, etc..... Good stay local and clean.

Oh the cyclos are still taking people around the old town for 10 ringets.

A 1981 Mercedes Truck with the hood cut off to keep cool. Re built in wood. The owner was so proud of his Merc.

Painted door Chinese temple Georgetown Penang MY

The old city has not changed a lot since our last visit in 08. Predominently Chinese population. Industrial centre and major port is Butterworth on the mainland. A bridge and ferry link Penang Island to the mainland.It was a British Colonial City controlling shipping in the Malakka Straits and to open trade with Siam. [Thailand]

Not a lot to see in Georgetown. Pigged out on noodles in the market. 2 meals with a slushy for $3. I hate noodles but these were OK and the cook had some pickled chillies he tried on me. Woow

Stall with Laksa and other noodle specials. Note: 3 ringets = 1 A$

Tomorrow Bus to Krabi Thailand.

Cameron Highlands

2011-05-22T22:03:00.000-07:00

Monday 16/5/11

Bus from Pudarahya Station KL to Cameron Highlands

Bus from Bay 14 Pudyuraya Bus Station. This station has undergone a huge building programme. All the touts have gone, the waiting area is tiled & airconditioned. No fun left in life.

The Highlands are 1000 metres altitude. Lonely Planet says, "this is the place old buses come to die and all the drivers are F1 aspirants". The new road twists and turns passing through dense tropical jungle. It is a very good road.

The buses "art itself"".

Our Hotel in the Cameron Highlands.

Century Pines Resort Reception Cameron Highlands [CH]

Tomorrow Tourists for the day Cameron Highlands

Tourists in the Cameron Highlands

2011-05-22T22:02:00.000-07:00

Tuesday 17/5/11
The CH main industry is market gardens, flower gardens, tea plantations and tourists. Local tourists flock here from Singapore and Penang as the temperature is cool, suitable for your scribe to wear a pullover.

Time spent on a day trip to see the BOH tea plantation,
The Rose Garden, Bee Farm, and the Strawberry Patch. The tea gardens are awesome.

Tea lovers, it is better than the wine tours. We were tourists for the day.

I saw the tea Plantations and the Orchids now I can be Happy than Happier Too.

Tomorrow we travel by Bus to Penang MY.

KL Malaysia hot and sticky

2011-05-22T20:08:00.000-07:00

15/5/11

Happy Campers leaving on a jet plane

Hi here we are in KL. There is a definite something about arriving by air in an Asian port. There is a feeling and a smell as soon as you step out of the plane.

The air is like, heavy. The smell is a mix of rotten vegetation, wet socks and exotic spices. I always feel like it is Far North Queensland without the cooking smells. I am at home.

The ride into KL is all palm trees, on a super highway past the Sepang Raceway.

The highway meets the gridlock around Sentral bus station.

Bukit Bintang Square with Petronas Towers in the background

KL is changing rapidly.The signs of wealth are everywhere - cars, dress, shops and apartments. The people are reserved and polite. Moslems have majority. The Chinese have the money, the Indians do the work and the Malays run the government. Forgive me if I am wrong but that is how I see it. Seems to be OK so far.

We took a walk, KL was hosting the youth festival in Bukit Bintang square. The crowds were excited and all the stars were out. Our dinner in the square, Malay Chicken Rice washed down with hot tea. We listened to the music and watched the generation that would run this vibrant country in a few years. They looked like any other kids full of life and expectations.

Tiger Beers in the local pub whiile taking a look at the super modern mall, some video snaps of buskers, train back to hotel and time to retire ready for the bus to Cameron HIghlands tomorrow.

Thanks for coming along.

Auspicious Beginning. The Planets are aligned

2011-05-16T17:44:00.000-07:00

The Planets are aligned for a safe and pleasant journey.

The Planets aligned

Our journey started in Southport and this is what it looked like at 5.15am on Sunday 15th before our uneventful flight and overnight stay in KL.

Bus tomorrow Monday for a 5.5 hour bus to Cameron Highlands.

On the road again.

2011-05-14T04:38:00.000-07:00

Hi
You are invited to join us. This is a short journey KL Malaysia to Phuket Thailand Via the Historic Cameron Highlands.

City Scape KL

KL is not my favorite city. It is vibrant and modern. But I feel it lacks soul.

Bus and train travel in Malaysia is easy and cheap air-conditioned luxury coaches on super highways make travel a breeze. Rail travel is limited given the rail track from Singapore splits south of KL. One track goes North to Penang and onto Thailand Bangkok.
The spur line goes to the Khota Baru on the West Coast. Known as the Jungle line. It does not link to Thailand.

Petronis towers KL

Comparing Malaysian roads to Australian roads these super highways link the whole nation. It is us who are a third world country. North Queensland was isolated for 2 months this year. Not good enough.

Cameon Highlands

Sourced davesworldtravel.com/.../

I hark back to a conversation I had with brother in law Robert McIness. Comparing Australia with thousand of kilometers of roads, International airports, Ports and a coast line that goes on forever. A population of 22 million. But in the end the super highways the fast trains in Asia and China. What are we doing with all our resources money?

Our planned route is North to Ipoh and then local bus to Cameron Highlands stopping for a few days at Tanah Rata at a fab resort. The Cameron Highlands are famous. In colonial times the British used the Highlands as a retreat from the oppressive heat of the plains. Set 1000 metres above sea level the Highlands offer cool retreat. Tea is the production plus the orchids you see in your favorite florist probably were sourced there. Your scribe loves tea and orchids are my favorite flower.

file:///Users/malcolmwilliams/Pictures/iPhoto%20Library/Originals/2011/25:04:2011/DSC_0069.JPG

Cameron Highlands tea plantations
Sourced maatictours.com/ main/?p=735

You are invited to travel with Pam and I. Together we will discover the Highlands, experience life on the long distance buses and then the treasures of Kho Phi Phi [James Bond Islands] and the jewel called Krabi then Phuket meeting with Kellie, Richie and Lucie for a family holiday. Excited? I am! On the road again. Lets do it your scribe Malcolm.

A long overdue letter to my friend

2011-03-03T03:59:00.000-08:00

Hello dear friend

This letter bears good news and in fact for me it is an epiphany!

What's on in Melbourne in the music scene.

I wrote you some time ago the post being (2 days living with cancer). 18 November 2010.

You may remember I spoke of the fact I have a tumour in the prostate gland it had a Gleason score of 9 and a PSA 45 rising rapidly. The biopsy 18/1/2009 showed a large tumor covering half the prostate.

The conundrum; impossible to operate, radiotherapy was not an option, chemotheray does not work on prostates. Androgen blockers was the stop gap method. (female hormones).

I responded really well to this treatment and as you know in the 2 years since treatment started we have been traveling and doing lots of good stuff. The PSA score bottomed out at a nadir of 1.5 and then started to increase. This was very suspicious added to this shadows on the bones.
The PSA score is not restricted to the prostate if the cancer spreads it will send out the same PSA no matter if it is in the bones, liver, or other close organs. The danger for men is there is no symptoms of the disease.

Top end of Collins street we were waiting for the hospital to open 6.45am

My Brisbane Oncologist felt he needed better information to make a decision and he referred me to Professor Gillian Dushene at the Peter MacCallum Cancer Clinic East Melbourne for treatment. She took over my case and decided to do extensive scans and tests prior to taking the plunge on Iodine 125 seed implantation Brakytherapy a form of mini atomic bombs implanted to explode over 4 months. Man says I "this is serious shit".

After 3 days of MRI and ultra sounds tests. The professor reported that they had not found evidence of any extensive disease The scans showed the prostate to be near normal and no obvious disease was seen. A recommended course of action was to stay on the anti androgen drugs. "I can handle that!"
In short I still have a tumour. It has shrunk. I am being treated with androgen blockers.

My friend the news is manna to me. I do not know what I have done to cheat the tumour.
Maybe the change helped!
I eat only fresh. I do not eat red meat, Coffee is down to two a day, Green tea and good leaf teas replaced coffee. I walk beside the water every day. I swim at least 1.5 km a week. I try not to stress the small things as it is all small things. More importantly I love to travel with the wind in my hair and a pack on my back with my camera and sketch pad on trucks and trains with the locals, it all seems easy. Then there is little Lucie, Kellie-ann, Richie, and Citt powering on with their lives. How can I miss that? Pam and I are 45 married, amazing.

Coffee in the old Melbourne GPO

"Freedom's just another word for nothing left to lose"
Bobby MacGee
.

Gotcha,

Thank you, thank you, thank you, for your kind words and prayers they all worked. It is a minor miracle. I know it is not over but man it sure as hell beats the alternative.

Regards your good friend

Malcolm

Link to a video of Christchurch - Gorilla Pictures NZ

2011-02-22T17:54:00.000-08:00

Gorilla videos/earthquake.

Christchurch a city devastated.

2011-02-22T02:18:00.000-08:00

This city of Christchurch NZ is so cool but no longer It is devastated by an earthquake. I wonder what Anzac done to deserve this.

A man dies on the street with his Reuters wife holding his hand after an earthquake in Christchurch February 22, 2011. REUTERS/HO

A man dies on the street with his wife holding his hand after an earthquake in Christchurch February 22, 2011. REUTERS/HO

The facts
The biggest storm to hit - Cyclone Yasi, the greatest floods of the last century 75% of Qld inundated, 20% Victoria and the stats are not in for NSW. WA floods and fires. Darwin with a big blow. What have we done?

Christchurch Cathedral reuters.com

eartquake_02.JPG

http://totallycoolpix.com/2011/02/earthquake-hits-new-zealand-city-of-christchurch/?utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter

It is so big you would never get away from it. Cyclone Yasi Australia North Queensland.

2011-02-02T01:25:00.000-08:00

Europe so scary it is unbelievable.

http://www.smh.com.au/photogallery/environment/weather/yasi-vs-the-world/20110202-1adhm.html

If you are in doubt about how Aussies do it better cop this one it is real and it is now.

2011-02-02T01:19:00.001-08:00

http://www.news.com.au/breaking-news/floodrelief/how-cyclone-yasi-compares-around-the-world/story-fn7ik2te-1225998762870

You do not have to go far to get in an adventure. Aussie got it all!

2011-01-31T20:12:00.000-08:00

The weather is crazy

Perth on post cyclone watch

The Murray area flooded with 42C (108f) degree heat.

Adelaide and Melbourne fire danger.

Bowen Queensland hit by Cyclone Anthony Sunday

Now the mother of all cyclones.

Cyclone "Yasi".

This one is a whopper upgrading to a category 4 as we watch.

forecast a meter of rain and a storm surge of 1-1.5 metre.

650 kms from one side to the other centre. Plus the sting in the tail.

Packing wind gusts of 270km per hour.

Our thoughts are with our fellows who are in the path of this killer

Due to cross the coast AEST 2100-2400 Wednesday 2nd Feb 2011(+10 GMT)

Weather map published 11.30 1/Feb/2011 AEST

IDY00030.201102010000.png

Synoptic Chart (Clik)

A scientific approach to the Aussie floods

2011-01-15T17:13:00.000-08:00

as sea surface temps warm expect more water
An explanation from various sources.
http://teacup.net.au
Citt Williams ((teacup) is our youngest daughter presently a student at East Anglia University studying climate change.

Please drill down to your suburb on the Australian Govt map on the teacup blog for advanced flood maps and sea inundation.

Hope you are all safe.

Malcolm and Pam

Queensland floods and tragedy

2011-01-11T20:53:00.000-08:00

Mother nature cut loose. Lives lost people missing. 12/1/2011 The peak of the tide is due at 1500. King tide tomorrow.

75% of our state flooded the size of Texas
300 mil 12 inches of rain in 3-4 hours
The coast from Rockhampton to Brisbane 1000kms
All flooded from Barcaldine to the coast for the second time in 2 weeks.

The scary bit is the whole mess of water will now go South. The Murray system is sure to flood and that is Australia's bread basket. Feeding not only us but South East Asia and China with Wheat and produce. Cotton crops are devastated near 20% of the worlds crop. Coal exports are at a stand still. China's steel mills and power plants will be hard pressed.

Australia has had a 7 year drought.
Last year at this time the State of Victoria had a fire storm devastating and wiping out whole towns.
Now the state of Queensland and it follows New South Wales and Victoria with some of South Australia faces unprecedented killer floods. The amount of water never before seen in our recorded history.

But there are bush fires in Western Australia.

Core of my heart my country
Land of rainbow gold
For flood and fire and famine she pays us back three fold.
My Country
Dorothy MacKellar (1904)

See maps of the flood areas. Brisbane
http://lexiphanic.com/floodmaps/#floodflagmaps

These images are feeds from Flickr and Utube and are not my images. Thanks to those photographers.
This blog is for information of our friends and family

Our family and friends are safe. Some we know are inconvenienced but safe.
Family in Rockhampton, Mackay and Brisbane.
Thank you all for your concerns.

Letter blog from Citt in Snowy Germany

2010-12-29T00:16:00.000-08:00

Thinking of my country this Snowy Christmas

Citt Williams Film Maker soon to be Meterologist

A message from Citt.
Please go to
http://teacup.net.au/
...................................

The best for 2011 to all our family friends and those we are yet to meet.
Wherever you are and wherever you go.
Please take care of yourself and our planet.
Pam and Malcolm Williams

2 days - Living with Cancer

2010-11-18T20:49:00.000-08:00

Monday 15th November 2010

Referred to the Peter McCallum Cancer Institute Melbourne

Living with cancer

Swanston Street Melbourne

Enter the doctors surgery to the well oiled reception and wait in a room with bodies as frightened in anticipation as you are. Smell the fear and the ladies coming along with their men flicking the out of date magazines and newspapers trying not to look concerned. Eyes do not meet.

Your name is called. You wish someone else would answer but the doctor is looking at you and your loved is just as reluctant to answer almost as if you are as one body.

Lost soul and dead apple

Enter the doctors surgery, explain all the finer points of your private life, the body functions, or lack of, the nights you have had no sleep, the bad spells. The pictures come out of the envelope. You watch as the doctor looks at the inner workings of your body on a light frame. The imperfections in the pictures. The tell tale signs of cancer. Those grey areas. Damn! Why are they there? Small imperfections created in your body. You cannot hide these imperfections. They are inside you, no amount of exercise, diet or positive thought will cure. You cannot talk out of this one. Bullshit is not on here. The doctor is Judge and Jury. This person is a life line to some sort of lifestyle and future. This is it and you have no say in at all.

Entrance, Peter McCallum Cancer Clinic

Wind back the clock as you sit in the chair discussing the options as your life slowly passes by in front of you. You try to shut out the fact that you may be being dramatic. It is not as bad as it all seems. You recollect the fishing trip, the giggle of your granddaughter, the smile of your wife and the encouragement from your daughters then the conversation comes to wild cells leakage from the area. The tumour becoming active again and then you are all attentive.
This is the news that you were not expecting. This is the news that was not wanted. It has many large complicated words meaning it could be in your blood and it could end up anywhere creating hell to good cells. So keep positive, keep calm, let us look at the options, another x-ray session with more radiation in the bones and radioactive injections, to assist a rod up the arse, radioactive of course, to make a finer picture of the tumour present in the prostate. Try to find the rogue cells and then Zap the Prostate. Poor little prostate only put there to propagate the species and now causing so much trouble for the male of the species. Me.

Arcade shopping Melbourne

Mate I think. “It is time to get some positive vibes here! So let us not dwell too long. What is the worst that can happen”? Wrong question for this time in the cycle? Correct!

“Malcy we have been in tough scraps before. Let’s front up and do whatever we have to do and if it beats us then so be it we gave it our best shot.”

We sit at the tram stop whipping tears from our eyes and feeling exhausted. Pam nudges me “Hey, look a pub. I need a scotch. My shout”.

Come to the traffic lights and I go to cross. Pam screams “tram”. Nearly walk into a tram. That would be right. Cancer has nothing to do with it. The bloody tram will kill me. Where is the door to this pub? I mumble a lot. Suppose it is my right! Damn! Just when I was getting on with life to. Beer is good. Barmaid notices the big parcel of x-rays and photos. Does not comment until we are leaving and says, “We get a lot of you people in here. I bet I know what your problem is.” It occurred to me as we walked out the door I belonged to a club of people with no exclusive rights. The club is growing rapidly and no one is exempt. Don’t have to be nominated either.

I smiled, holding Pams’ hand. I know I have the best medical team and a family that cares and I have you as a friend. That makes me strong. I can smile.

Tuesday 16th

Day after the consultation

Peter Mac Callum Cancer Clinic East Melbourne 8.00am

St Andrews Place Melbourne on the way to the appointment with the scan machine

Walk in the main entrance left to the lift upper ground floor

PET Scan

What is a PET scan? Keep calm. If I crack dumb, all will be revealed. I am sure that it is not one of those things that you buy at Dick Smiths. Yeah, I can hear you. Why did you not ask the good Doctor yesterday?

Yep good question, the answer is “overwhelmed”. Ever been there?

Into the cubicle, birthdates 3 times, address twice and there I am. Then I find out that a PET scan is a hybrid between MRI, CT & Bone Scan.

St Andrews Place rock sculpts Treasury place

My little problem. The bones have huge shadows and no amount of conventional sensor x-rays have shed light (pun). It shows as shadow. It could be tumors or radiology splash, either way we need to establish the identity. If not, it could be a sure sign to paradise for this scribe. PSA is increasing and there is no visible reason for it. The good doctor is suspicious and looking for rogue cells. (Refer to the earlier writings).

Enter the cubicle and take off clothes, put on hospital gear. Take off all metal, rings, jewellery and watches. Put in basket, sit on the seat and wait. Orderly inserts the intra canal with the mixture of dye tracer and sugar solution. This is the difference in the MRI and the bone scan. The sugar invigorates the cancer and makes it visible to the camera. Rest and the orderly starts the video of your choice. My selection “Totally Blonde”, Man, I need inspiration. Stay perfectly still. If you move you can create the solution to enter the brain and that is not the purpose of the exercise. How can I not laugh at the zany blonde.

Lay on the table and wait. The machine looks at your body making lovable sounds like Deep Purple on a bad day. You cannot move a muscle as it will distort the picture. The process takes all of 90 minutes. Yep, there it is. No need to wear pyjamas, all is revealed.

I feel cold, invaded, devoid of feelings and sad that the body I have cherished, exercised, admired, is now very different. It is invaded by its own cells.

The doctor gives me the OK to go and we walk from the clinic into the Melbourne sunshine.

Time for coffee and breakfast. Time to ponder on my good fortune to be in an age and a place that can help me to prolong lifestyle.

OLD and NEW Victoria to IT

Tomorrow we return to our home in Southport Q with the knowledge that this is going to be a long fight.

Merry Christmas to you all Malcolm and Pam

But I can do it. I have the best team around me.

Melbourne 15-16 November 2010

Dunhuang, Jiayuguan mad bus ride to the start of the Silk Road.

2010-10-29T07:01:00.000-07:00

Journal entry 10 September 2010
Today is critical as we want to see the "Valley of One Thousand Buddhas" the "Magoa Caves" and travel 450 km to the start of the Silk Road at Jiayuguan Fort the end of the great Wall of China.
Time is running out for us as we only have two days left and we want to visit the city Zhangye where Marco Polo spent a year waiting for permission to enter the court of Ghengis Khan. And we gotta book a flight out of Lanzhou which is another 12 hours bus ride from Zhangye.

The Magoa Caves, Dunhuang, Dansu Province, China

The day dawned bright and not too hot as we are in the desert oasis on the edge of the Tuklakaman Desert. It is really !!xx that the Chinese do not stir early. We try to leave early and the first buses and shops do not open till 9 or 10 It is virtually impossible to get going early.
Now last night we had a travel agent knock on our door and demand we go on her bus to the caves. The deal was a tour of the caves and a bus ride there and back. We were not amused. She was very aggressive. More on that in a moment.
For now we focus on brekkie and flight tickets out of Lanzhou to Beijing for 2 days time. We find a cafe that serves an egg brekkie (not noodles) and some sort of black stuff called coffee. (Citt is tonguing for a cappuccino). More importantly in the corner of the cafe is a computer that works. So we book on line a flight ticket Lanzhou - Beijing for late on the 12th. Dunno how we will get there.
(yeah I know wing it).

The 35 meter high Buddha carved from the cliff

Now for the caves. We find the locals run a bus out to the caves and back for 10y and the tour is 35y. Total 45y. The aggressive agent wanted 300y each. Yep gotta watch it when you are foreign can be bloody expensive.
The bus for Jiayuaguan leaves on the hour every hour so we allow 4 hours for the Cave Tour.
We are not happy as we have realised that this is one of the wonders of the ancient world and we only allow 2 hours to see it but in hindsight there are 240 caves and they only allow visitors into 10 and the tour takes 1.5 hours and no photos or free walking. So there is no reason to stay longer. The monks caves are a long walk and we are not real interested in them but you may be if you go.

Gate to Dunhuang

The caves have been occupied for 1800 years and most are hand made to the size of a small auditorium. The standing Buddha covered by the terrace in the photo is reputed to be the 2nd biggest in the world carved from the cliff and covered by the roof 35 metres high it is open for visitors. Just awesome.

Highway signs

We caught our bus for Jiayuguan and we found out it is a 5 hour ride so we are going to be short of time to photograph the fort which is a disappointment to us.

East gate keepers office to fort

East gate to fort

Incredible the bus took 4 hours and we arrive Jiayuguan at 6.00 with about 1.5 hours light but where is the fort.
We are in a huge industrial city with lots of traffic and stuff. Luck has it our taxi is aware of our destination and we make it with time to spare.
This marks the outer boundary of the Han Empire 12th century and the end of the great wall. From here anyone who passed through the gates heading west were either expelled from the Empire travellers or merchants. From here on to the West it was uncharted territory controlled by warlords and heathens uncharted territory deserts mountain passes bandits and thieves.

West gate entering the Empire traveling East.

The bluestone cobbles at the gates had deep pits from countless wagon wheels, the walls of the fort were scratched deep and along the edge of the fort were the spaces in the bricks were timber holes for lean too's where merchants stalls and houses would have stood.
We stood very very still dreaming listening to the sound of exhausted camels & donkeys There was beautiful string music coming from the camp fires. Soft sounds of languages long gone, relating tales of mystical mountains, cities over the desert. Kashgar, Bukara, Kiev, Smyrna, Damascus, Liban, Cairo, Bactria, Kabul, Peshawar, Lahore, Delhi, Somakand, Penjikent and Konstantinople. Stories of heroics, travelers tales, great feats.
The soft unmistakable smell of pot and hash on the wind mixed with the smell of the cooking pots of curry, garlic, five spice and exotic spices from Thailand Persia and Turkey.

The West gate. The last gate to the known world. Jiagugan Fort the start of a traders journey through uncontrolled lands.

We were disturbed by traders brushing past turbans, capes, kaftans of exotic colour, Taji men in scarf and tunic and the cossack with high leather boots, Mongols in dells, Kazaki, Urghur, Persians, Heavy set Arabs in white tunics with horses to trade. Women passed by with water tureens on their heads, plying their wares. we heard the sounds and wails of the slaves ready for the market in the morning. The unmistakable sound of the soldiers swords, sabers and the smell of stale urine and sweat.

Sunset on the West Gate Jiayugauan fort. Photo: Citt Williams

We took one last snap in the last light, looked at each other, wiped a tear off each other.
Citt and I had travelled so far on the Silk Road. It is a long exciting journey from the Mediterranean to Jiayuguan in China. Covering high mountain plateaus deserts and ancient cities en route.

The light is gone and it is time to depart this time forgotten fort trading post
We hear the sounds of the Motor-way it is 4 lanes heading West.

It is not how you start but how you finish. A long journey is many steps

They say the Fort was so well engineered that only one brick was over ordered and that brick sits above the West gate.

Tomorrow the last days 48 hours travel.

The bus ride to remember.

2010-10-21T22:40:00.000-07:00

Journal entry 9 September 2010
Arrived Hemi by train early morning then a bus to the oasis of Dunhuang to visit the extraordinary Magoa Buddhist Caves 4th - 14th century home to the greatest collection of ancient scripts and paintings. We plan to visit and move on fast as our time is running out. We depart on the 13th from Beijing and Tianjin and we still have a lot to explore. We are contemplating flights we are never going to make it. The distance is killing us. Read on.

Our bus from Hemi to Dunhuang

We arrived in Hemi after 5 hours in a hard sleeper. Citt freeked out thinking we had gone past our stop in the middle of the night-morning.
It is first light as we leave the train at Hemi and walk out of the station. Hemi station is like all Asian rail stations, bursting with humanity. The surrounding shops in the square sell the necessities for long rail journeys with the usual noodle shops. (yup it is brekkie time) Citt points to a picture on the wall and that is our brekkie. (Yup noodles again) Ugh! But cost 8Y about $1.20. (Dad get with the program)

The highway A1

The rock strewn toll road

We take stock and have a team session (Me slurping noodles all over my shirt).We realize we have a 7 hour trip ahead of us on a bus. And we want to visit the desert hills of Dunhuang in daylight. We did not know where the bus station was or how to get there. But as always we wing it. You bet! Grab a taxi and show him our lonely planet and all would be good. No taxis. Ooops. --- Finally rounded one up. Travel a good 50 minutes reach our bus station and the bus leaves for Dunhuang in 35 minutes, perfect. The fare is an incredible $4 obviously the tourist police have not been here! The bus is modern and clean the seat jockey puts us in the best seat in view of the road. I am not sure in an asian bus that is a good thing? I can see death coming faster I think it may be better if I just died without seeing the huge trucks and stuff coming at me. (wimp dad)

The road

Our journey was not without drama. The toll police took a toll for a road that was not there, Incredible, just a sand and boulder track with wall to wall trucks and stuff, no road and they have a toll gate. Our jockey got so upset, Citt and I enjoyed the shouting match. Wow we thought they were going to kill each other.
We travelled nearly all day dodging trucks loaded with water melons and tomatoes. Our bus had the best klaxon horn. Did you hear us in Australia? We eventually arrived in Dunhuang kissed the earth and found a hotel.

Dunhuang is situated on the edge of the Tuklukaman desert, incredibly a spring feeds the crescent moon lake There is a 12th century pagoda with sacred buildings ringed by sand hills 1350 meters high. This is a famous place on the Silk Road. Just imagine ancient traders with caravans setting off and coming in from the desert and with all sorts of goods. Camels donkeys and mules being watered and traders selling and leasing camels for the onward journey. The road forks here. One route is over the desert the other is around the desert. The one over the desert was abandoned in the 16th century when most of the oasis dried up and the road was too dangerous. Global warming has been around for 300 years but it is accelerating in these parts. The lake is only 30% full.

The sun was fading as we arrived we threw our bags into the room and headed out to capture sunset on the Crescent Moon lake and the sand hills. We did not make the sunset but enjoy the awesome snap of the crescent moon lake, enjoy.

We visit the valley of a thousand buddhas tomorrow,

Turpan. My dream comes true. A natural wonder.

2010-10-10T00:52:00.000-07:00

Journal entry 8 September 2010.
Our aim today is to get to Turpan and onto the train for Hemi. Hemi is the closest train station for our onward journey to Duanbuang arguably the most important stop along the Silk Road. Our train departs Turpan station at 01.30 tomorrow.

Tuyoq ancient village. Historic oasis on the silk road.

Turpan represents to me the wonder of the Silk Road. I first read about it in Paul Theroux's book "Ride the Iron Rooster" and never ever thought I would see it. The dream comes true. To explain, the area is served by 5000 kms of underground irrigation channels built by hand 2000 years ago, 80 meters deep in some places fed by gravity, designed by Persian engineers. The result is the vegetable and grain bowl of Western China.
Maybe our planners on the MIA could learn some lessons from the ancient engineers of Persia?

Hotel Tarum Urumqui

To start it was a real struggle to get out of the Tarum Petroleum Hotel which is my idea of a backpackers paradise. Brekkie (not bloody noodles) then a taxi to the bus station for a 3 hour journey to the oasis town of Turpan. Little did we know this was to be one of the most satisfying days of our journey with surprises in store.
After travelling through an area fenced off for demolition, we arrived at the local bus station. Guess who lived in the fenced off areas?
Our bus left on time. Back on travellers terms.
Luck was with us. On this bus was a young Urghur man travelling to Turpan to see his folks then returning to Beijing university. We chatted for an hour or so. He gleaned a lot of information from us. In return he proceeded to organise our day.

So it was.
A taxi met us at the bus stop and whisked us off to -

Touyoq an ancient oasis town 80 kilometres from Turpan.

The ancient oasis town of Tuyoq

The ancient irrigation systems of Turpan (karaz) 5000 kms of tunnels.

The grape restaurants of Turpan fed by the ancient irrigation system.

Grape arbors to beat the summer roast

Jiaohe Ruins an amazing ancient ruins home to 6500 people. 2 AD-9AD

The ancient city of Jiaohe garrison town

The city map of Jioahe showing a natural moat created by the river

We had a full day soaking up the enormous historical information of this incredible place. Our student, Colin, rang and directed the taxi to the city centre to meet him. We had a couple of hours spare and Colin wanted to make sure we got a taxi at the right price to the train as the station is 90 kilometers from the city centre.

We walked the City and found a seat in the centre watching ballroom dancing on the rotunda, listening to music and generally people watching. Our presence created a lot of interest with the locals. They all wanted to talk English. In time Citt was approached by a person and he related some very sad stories to her.

Colin also related the same stories of genocide and discrimination. It would be easy to become involved in their struggle but so dangerous.
As we bid farewell I recall a conversation with a fellow snapper, Ron Uhlman in Brisbane. We discussed the people of this region and the fact that they just open their hearts and homes to you without reservation.

Nearly forgot this is where the great man Marco Polo discovered noodles. They serve them thick, thin and some slimy ones made from rice. One place we went they even went so far as to hide the noodles under vegetables in the soup so I did not know. (Ugh Noodles I hate noodles.)

Altai Region-Cash cow. Paradise Alpine region

2010-10-09T20:59:00.000-07:00

Journal: 5/6 September 2010 Jiadgeua Altai tourist village room #3145.
The reason we are here is to explore the Kansa Lake and Hemu (Tuwa village) Altai. The area is alpine country bordering Russia, Mongolia and Kazakhstan. The Chinese government has a policy to make this a major tourist area with a new airport and tourist infrastructure. Citt is keen to take a look for professional interest. We spend 2 days visiting Kansa Lake and Hemu Village.

Kanas Lake. Altai

Room # 3145 Your intrepid travelers spend a night cold and bloody freezing. Fully clothed: thermals, jeans, cashmere pullover, socks, fleecy jacket in bed! The room is not heated and the price is the same as 5 star Beijing.

Kanas lake and Friendship Peak

So here we go, tourism for the foreigners China style where everything is three times the price. Fine if you do not know (like on a package). But your intrepid travelers are mean and know the prices and it hurts. What hurts more is the fact that the locals do not share in the spoils. It all goes to Beijing.
Citt says "Our vow for this area of the journey is not to talk about the price" OK.

Citt has a special connection to this country. Shame it is spoiled by greedy operators in Beijing. BUT at the end she is right, as the people make us welcome with awesome hospitality.*

The area borders Russia, Mongolia and China. In fact if you stand on the pinnacle of Friendship Peak you can move with one foot in each country if you have three feet that is.

Our first move after cracking the ice from our noses is to have a "cuppa" and then find some brekkie.
Marc our driver delivers us to a noodle shop
Ugh, I hate noodles especially for Brekkie.
('Stop moaning Dad')

Kanas River

Belly full. The reason we came here is to explore the region. Citt has had several journeys to the other side of the border and she is keen to see what the Chinese are doing with this area. The Altai mountain range is an important meteorological scientific area for the Russians and Kazakhis. It is also rich in ecological and ethnology being inhabited since 7000 BC ( see standing stones of the Altai, this blog page 1 toolbar). Russia's highest mountain (twin peaked Mt Beluka 4,506m) is in this range. It is wilderness UNESCO protected but not so here.

Tuwa horse people

The area is inhabited by the Tuwa people these people are on both sides of the border. Citt says they are wild mountain people. There are numerous lakes in the region but the most famous is Kanas lake created by a glacier that melted in three different eras. The lake wall is created by moraine from the glacier fed from Friendship Peak. The area is a major tourist attraction for the Chinese. An entry fee is charged. Then another fee for the ride to the top. And another for a ride on a boat on the lake. (see what I mean") (Shut it Dad.)
We hired horses from the Tuwa hoping they would get the money. ( Dad I will belt you.)

All this apart, the area is Alpine timbered, steep and mountainous. Snow leopard, wolf, fox, ermine and wild horse roam the mountains. Poachers are prevelant. See the photos of the pelts. Eco and animal lovers do not look. The area is sub zero for most of the year.
I will let the images tell the story.

* I mentioned Marc our driver BUT what I did not mention was our interpreter on the end of the phone. Her name is Cocco. Every time we made a change Marc rang Cocco. It turned out Cocco was a school teacher and she wanted to meet us. A dinner date was established and we sat down with 6 colorful locals and had the best meal. They wanted to know all about us. Anyway we made it to the plane for our 12 midnight flight to Urumqui. This is what traveling is all about, right? People.

Urumqui does history repeat?

2010-10-02T23:01:00.000-07:00

Journal entry dated 8 September 2010 Urumqui North West China

Urumqui (Wuloomqui) is a City of approx 2,500,000

To the future of the region

Established 648 AD to collect taxes from the Silk Road Caravans entering and leaving the Empire.
Qing Dynasty 1644-1912 the Emperor Quianlong In 1755 ordered the mass extermination of all Dzungars estimated at 1,000,000 people. one writer described the resulting desolation in what is now northern Xinjiang as: "an empty plain for a thousand li, with no trace of man.

State farms set up in 1759 with fertile pastures and plentiful water. It took generations to recover.
The city was called Dihua and is the capital of Xianjing province.
Following the founding of the Peoples Republic of China the ciity was renamed Urumqui.
The name means "beautiful pasture" in the Mongolian language of the Dzungar people.

Highway out of Urumqui

The city was the site of major rioting in July 2009 due to conflicts between Han and Uyghur ethnic groups in which nearly 200 people were left dead; most of the victims were Han-Chinese. SO it is said and reported.

Reports of extensive police retaliation against the Uyghur minority have circulated ever since, despite the Chinese government having shut down access to emails and overseas phone calls. I might add as well as all social interactive sites such as face book, twitter, linkdn and my blog, etc. source Wikipedia.

Citt has a keen interest in this area through her work with the UNDP in Russia and Kazakhstan and this finds us in the Institute of Art and Science talking with Professors about problems ethnic, ecological, social and geography of the area. The area has 14 ethnic groups discrimination in the work place and in every day life is evident and the areas around the International market place are dangerous to wander. The Moslems are blamed but to us it seemed the blame was to be placed seriously on the Beijing government due to their heavy policies. It really takes two to make an argument. They have huge problems with water and the tourist influx (development and infrastructure being out of step with the environment)/. The area is a rich source of oil and gas.

Is this just another regime that China is going to have to endure.

I have a saying learnt forrm my trading.

"If you want to look into the future look into the past".

I do hope 1755 does not happen again.

Citt finds a friend

On a brighter note The Autonomous Museum has the largest collection of the mummies from the Western Deserts dating from 5000BC and we were keen to see them and the ethnological history of the area. It is believed this area is the birthplace of the American Indians and other American tribes.

WE did wander into the International Market area for interest.

Our hosts in Urumqui were hospitable and enlightened us with images, and related stories. We finished our stay with a sumptuous Banquet traditional hot-pot with Professor and students.

Tomorrow we travel to Turpan (Tulufan) and the Karzan irrigation areas.

Korakoum Highway South to Lake Korakul and Mush Tagan Mountain: China South West

2010-09-18T18:32:00.000-07:00

Journal entry dated 3 Sept 2010 Kashar to the Mountains departed 9.00am.
The Khorakorum Highway passes over the Kunhjerab Pass (4800) gateway to Pakistan/India for centuries this was the route used by caravans plodding down the Silk Road. Kunjerab means valley of blood. Named as this was the place the camel trains were robbed and the merchants murdered by local bandits. This is now Taliban territory. Somethings do not change.
Citt and I hired a driver/car to take us to the lake approx 220 kms south of Kashgar, we did not want to go to the border as it was too restricted and the altitude would make us sick. The area borders Tajikistan/Pakistan/Afghanistan and is the meeting place of the Hindu Kush and the Tian Shan Mountain ranges. (It holds a special place for Citt and I as we passed through Tajikistan over the mountains on the Silk Road journey 2007 through Central Asia).
The road starts off in desert changing to the foothills where it becomes lush farms and friut orchards of Peach, Almonds, Apricots, Plums and Apples. The fields are full of honey and water melon with corn and wheat in the drier areas. Kids play on the road on their way to school we are traveling fast with loud horn. The road is excellent.
The flats give way to mild hills with worn out cliffs of clay. Then suddenly we are on the cusp of a hill and the mountains rise up before us. The road follows the river through a red rock canyon leading to a vast plain of grass and a shallow lake. The hills turn to sand dunes. We are blessed with a sunny still day so you can enjoy the superb images we captured.

There is no one about except for some kids selling antiques and carpets from Pakistan. A fellow sidles up to us with some precious gems to sell. Amethyst, or crystals? We are warned by our driver it is illegal to buy antiques to take out and the gems carry a jail term. Good; as about 3 kilometers down the road there is a police road block. This is one of many as we are on the road to Islamabad, Pakistan and the whole area is in a state of war. We are close to the Kashmir region about 150 kilometers down the road. People smugglers are operating big time and so is the drug trade. We are warned and rightly so. The next police check is heavily armed outpost with machine gun posts and armed pill boxes. We are given the once over. The trucks are lined up for a kilometer and being searched thoroughly we suspect for people, arms and contraband. The topography changes from sand to rock and we note huge mines. The road is badly damaged and washed away by the recent rains and floods. Complete mountains have slipped onto the road and deviations are common.
In time we reach our destination "Lake Karakul". It is a beautiful clear blue lake surrounded by snow capped mountains, the dominating mountain Mush Tagan 7317metres, The locals are here with camels and small mountain horses to try and make some money off the tourists.
Again we are offered rare gems, antique carpets, antique glassware and other stuff coming out of Pakistan to get some cash to live. I buy a china hand carved chop for Susie and a Tajiki necklace for Pam, Citt is conned again into going to look at Carpets but we get to share a Gur for an hour or so. We both figure it is better to give these people money than give it to the organized charities as these people need to eat.
We return to Kashgar in time to catch the last flight to Urumqui in North West China we are well aware of our time restriction but we did meet a camel with attitude on the road.
Next blog Urumqui and the Altay.
To get the best out of the images >click on the arrows in the lower right had corner >select options for speed >select comments. Enjoy

Kashgar market, streets and people.

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To make your view better click the four arrows in the left lower corner for a full screen. Then click the middle arrow for viewing. Enjoy.

Kashgar Pretty exotic.

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Hey I know this is not a pro-show but look at the Chai-kana and the electric bikes.

Its a long long walk.

2010-08-27T20:18:00.000-07:00

Some friends have a funny way of saying have a good trip! This came today from our UK mates.

The Silk Road follows the Grrreat Waaall.

Capitalists and Traders. Silk Road Kashgar to Xian China.

2010-08-24T06:32:00.000-07:00

The Silk Road is about capitalists and traders and commerce.The Chinese traded with the Egyptians, Romans, Byzantines and the Phoneicians, as early as 250BC. Add to this the Indian continent and Africa and it becomes even more interesting.

Later in history the road became the artery for all of Central Asia linking China, India, Central Asia, Turkey and Europe.

Marco Polo travelled the route in the 12th century. (Picking up noodles (spaghetti) along the way and, as they say, the rest is history.)

The area was lawless, dominated by tribal interests ruled by cruel and vicious Khanates.

The route for all the camel trains was to leave markets of Xian and navigate the Chinese deserts, the Gobi to the North and the Taklakamen desert to the South.

The northern route was favored taking 6 months to travel from Xian to Kashgar

. Later in time a southern route emerged.

The camel trains were large somtimes up to 300 camels. The camel trains were financed by traders and financiers. The train had a master being an experienced and seasoned campaigner able to oversee the safe passage of the goods and chattels on a perilous journey, navigating tribal boundaries, bandits and thieves. Levies were paid at various places similar to customs duties guaranteeing safe passage. Trains travelled various distances, short hauls, others longer journeys.

All roads lead to Kashgar (Kashi)

Kashgar is situated in the Extreme Western corner of modern China, encircled by the snow covered ranges of the Tian Shin to the West, Hindu Kush and Pamir Mountains to the south and South West. All impassable in winter.

From Kashgar the trains either headed South to India on what is still known as the Korakorum Highway leading to modern Pakistan and onto India and Africa, or heading West, crossing the Tian Shin Mountains and onto the vast plains of Central Asia leading to Samarkan, Bukhara and Merv, Turkmenistan, Iran and Turkey.

The area is inhospitable desert country with temparatures rising to 40c in summer and minus 30c in winter. Vicious winds are common creating sa

nd storms. There is very little water in this land hence the trains followed the the mountains where oasis style towns flourished servicing the camel trains with shelter, food and water.

The "Silk Road" has many routes leading all over Asia. Today's highways follow the same routes. We head straight to Kashgar.

The city has a long history, conquered by Alexander the Great, later by the Persians who colonised the deserts of Central Asia prior to the Mongols in the 12th-14th century.

At the end of the Mongol rule it became a Khanate in the late 19th century annexed by Russia for a short spell until an agreement with the British.

In the period of the Great Game (the British believed that Russia would mount an attack on India along the Karakorum Highway in the period of the Napoleonic wars), the area came under Chinese rule with Mao's communist centralised regime. The area is now firmly a part of China and is treated as the last frontier. There is tribal unr

est in the region due to the modernisation of the City and the influx of Han immigrants sponsored by the central government.

We are aware that the area will be even more sensitive due to the upheavals of 40 million displaced persons in Pakistan due to the floods. We will tread very carefully.

I write this on the Gold Coast prior to my departure. When we were last in China all social sites were banned. Therefore I wanted to get some

information to you.

I leave on Monday the 30th August for Kashgar. Meet Citt on the 1st September enroute in Urumqui airport.

My thanks to the Prestons for the Chinese train schedules, booking forms and menu cards. To Ron for the great folio society book on the Silk Road for research purposes. Pam for her encouragement and enthusiasm. You my friends for always being there.

Malcolm

Images from our journey Silk Road 2008. Bukhara Uzbekistan.

Silk Road China, Visa, Flights and Medical.

2010-08-02T03:36:00.000-07:00

Hi filling you in with the details of my journey on the Silk Road.

Please refer to my earlier post explaining my journey with Citt.

My departure is scheduled for the 30th August returning the 15th September

Me all I need is a Chinese Visa. Book return flights and a medical clearance from my doctor!

The visa is fairly easy for China, evidence of a return flight and in my case a travel schedule and of course $40 cash.

My preferred flight due to cost is out of the Gold Coast. I am fortunate to source a flight for $93.00. I have sourced a China Southern flight via Hong Kong to Urumqi and then onto Kashgar. I am fortunate as Citt is on the same flight from Urumqi to Kashgar so we can get an airport pickup together. The KL- China flight is 15 hours.

Returning is reasonably easy just a flight from Tianjin to KL 10 hours as again the flights are Budget via KL. KL- GC.

Medical is not so easy.

I take Clexane injections for thrombosis to allow me to fly.

My prostate cancer is controlled with hormones. The good doctor gave me a 3 month injection to allow me to travel. I must consult on my return

The travel doctor completes the picture. My card reads.

Hepatitis A, Hepatitis B, Polio, Cholera ETEC Diahorea, Typhoid, Rabies, Flu. Add to this lot the fact I have psoriases of the skin and use cortisone ointment.

It is not so bad I always make sure before a journey I have the necessary medical precautions. . It is just not worth the thought to leave Australia and travel without safeguards.

Yep I know you are asking, why I would bother to travel? Good question.

I enjoy the thrill of visiting out of the way places rich in history with exotic peoples and awesome scenery. Rich pickings for me and my Nikon.

"Travel the path less trodden".

Note for our friends.

Citt will depart 13th for Pyongyang in North Korea for a 9 days tour. Then she will travel onto the University of East Anglia Norwich UK to start a Masters degree in Science Climate Change on the 23rd Sept. She has taken a sabbatical from the UNU.

Kellie and Richie have a little girl Lucie Hannah and she is just beautiful. 8/5/10

Another adventure the old silk road China.

2010-07-31T14:12:00.000-07:00

How do you categorise travel? And when does it turn into an adventure?

There is a good reason for me to ask this question of you as Pam thinks I am nuts to be doing it, my doctor calls it an adventure, a mate wants to come with me and others call it a holiday.

This is it.

Citt and I meet in a city in Western China called Kashgar or (Kashi).

It is the gate to China from Central Asia. The Chinese believed it was the Gate to Heaven as anything outside and West from this gate was unknown. Today it is still the gate to the West by road as the mountain passes over the Tian Shan Mountain range which separates China from Central Asia leads to Tajikistan and in 2007 Citt and I travelled on the other side of the mountains following the old silk road. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tian_Shan

We did not complete the journey across China to Beijing as time run out for us then.

This time our aim is travel from Kashgar, Urumqui, then follow the great wall along the Mongolian border through the desert visiting Turpan, Shanshan, (an oasis famous for Grapes and wine) Kurmul, Visit the ancient Buddhist temples at Dunhuang. Then onto Jiuguan, Zhagye and onto Xian where the Warriors lay. This was the end of the road until the Mongol empire allowed for greater areas of trade. Xian was the ancient capital of China. However the Mongols changed the capital to Peking (Beijing) in the 12th century. The silk road then followed on to the Port of Tianjin linking China to Japan and the Phillipines.

It is a fact the Silk Road has been a trading route since Egyptian times with goods being traded from India and China to Cairo and Rome.

The logistics are very simple no one caravan traded the whole route. The junction cities of Xia, Urumqui, Kashgar in china and Tashkent, Somarkan, Bukara, and Merv in Uzbekistan were the main markets and junctions of the silk road where goods were sold and exchanged. In these cities the merchants and the financiers lived. It is fair to assume the structures in these places are grand. And so they are.

The caravans bought slaves, silks, drugs, carpets, salt, ceramics and other merchandise to trade and barter. Religion in various forms. Islam, Buddhism and Christianity came to town with the caravans. In earlier times Zoastrians lived in this region http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zoroastrianism.

It is no wonder that with all the mixture that there would be friction. It is still evident and flared in 2009. The chinese communists have flooded the area with Han immigrants as a means of suppressing the local Urghurs in the Western desert cities. Sort of genocide.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uyghur_people

So is it an adventure or is it a holiday?

Come travel with us on the old silk road through some of the harshest deserts in China from Karchi to the port of Tianjin. Experience the wind in your hair and the thrill of seeing and meeting people in every day life. Take a look at their churches mosques and schools. Our trip is 11 days we will be travelling on local buses, trucks, trains and cars so you will need to be alert and ask a lot of questions. You will have Wikiipedia and google so pack up your bags turn on the computer get the kids involved as a geography, history, social, lesson and lets go. I will try to post as often as possible but in the meantime you can dig up information on the ancients and how old history is still current news.

"If you want to look into the future look into the past".

Note for all our friends. The cancer is under control.

I do agree with my oncologist doctor. It is an adventure traveling the old chinese silk road from Karchi to Tianjin. Pam is at home.